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Coolant Gauge Breakdown  RSS feed
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GreenDieselEngineering
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Joined: 10/07/2009 07:25:47
Messages: 348
Location: Southeast Michigan
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This is a breakdown of the coolant gauge and where the needle falls for a given temperature. All temperatures are in fahrenheit.

As long as you're running the car and the needle is within the black portion of the gauge, hammer down. The engine is self-protecting and you need only hold it to the floor when towing up hills and so forth.
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CRD Joe
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Joined: 18/07/2009 21:11:02
Messages: 49
Location: Seattle, Washington
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Mine sits on 176 at all times!

'05 CRD
Suncoast, Transco, Inmotion, Provent, ORM Snorkle, HID's, 2.5" Cat back no muffler, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Cat 2 filter
GreenDieselEngineering
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Joined: 10/07/2009 07:25:47
Messages: 348
Location: Southeast Michigan
For those vehicles that have not had the cluster updated per TSB 08-043-05 to cure the mis-reading of the coolant temperature, here is how the gauge indicates and the relevant information:



(Click on the picture for the full-size version of course)

If you go to a dealer, the TSB should be applied for free. After the TSB, the gauge will read as it does in the first picture.
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CRD Joe
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Joined: 18/07/2009 21:11:02
Messages: 49
Location: Seattle, Washington
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Well Im not sure whether my truck has had that TSB, but that lower reading is where my truck sits all the time.

'05 CRD
Suncoast, Transco, Inmotion, Provent, ORM Snorkle, HID's, 2.5" Cat back no muffler, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Cat 2 filter
GreenDieselEngineering
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Joined: 10/07/2009 07:25:47
Messages: 348
Location: Southeast Michigan
CRDJoe,

Do you ever tow with your Jeep? If not, the gauge will never leave the middle mark. With a 5000 lb. trailer going up Davis Dam, Baker Grade or Eisenhower Pass the gauge will run toward the hot limits. This engine is designed to perform without issue with the coolant at 239 F (115 C), this is why the AC will cut out first (based on the cluster calibration). The engine will run all day at 234 F (112 C) with minimal fuel limitation. With the pressurized cooling system and bottle, there is plenty of expansion room for the coolant at higher temps. The coolant bottle cap was designed with a specific pressure setting to prevent cavitation in the cooling system, which would lead to hot spots in the cylinder head.

The only recommendation we would add when trailer towing is not to shut off the engine immediately after going up a grade at max GCW. This is referred to as a heat soak and will lead to very high temps in the cylinder head. It is always best to keep the engine running at idle after a heavy tow up a grade. If for some reason someone is pulling a trailer above 5000 lbs. there may be overheat issues pulling up grades in the desert, we have tried this and turned the heater on max hot with AC off and the heat rejection from the heater core was enough let us run up the grade with coolant temps around 235 F.
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CRD Joe
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Joined: 18/07/2009 21:11:02
Messages: 49
Location: Seattle, Washington
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GreenDieselEngineering wrote:CRDJoe,

Do you ever tow with your Jeep? If not, the gauge will never leave the middle mark. With a 5000 lb. trailer going up Davis Dam, Baker Grade or Eisenhower Pass the gauge will run toward the hot limits. This engine is designed to perform without issue with the coolant at 239 F (115 C), this is why the AC will cut out first (based on the cluster calibration). The engine will run all day at 234 F (112 C) with minimal fuel limitation. With the pressurized cooling system and bottle, there is plenty of expansion room for the coolant at higher temps. The coolant bottle cap was designed with a specific pressure setting to prevent cavitation in the cooling system, which would lead to hot spots in the cylinder head.

The only recommendation we would add when trailer towing is not to shut off the engine immediately after going up a grade at max GCW. This is referred to as a heat soak and will lead to very high temps in the cylinder head. It is always best to keep the engine running at idle after a heavy tow up a grade. If for some reason someone is pulling a trailer above 5000 lbs. there may be overheat issues pulling up grades in the desert, we have tried this and turned the heater on max hot with AC off and the heat rejection from the heater core was enough let us run up the grade with coolant temps around 235 F.


Damn, you guys are way to smart! LOL. No I dont tow yet. I was thinking about a 2000lb adventure trailer, but that would be the heaviest thing Id be towing.

Thank you.

'05 CRD
Suncoast, Transco, Inmotion, Provent, ORM Snorkle, HID's, 2.5" Cat back no muffler, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Cat 2 filter
Lancer

Joined: 15/07/2009 02:30:43
Messages: 18
Location: London, England
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Mine has always sat at one mark below middle until last week. One day we had air temp of about 30 deg C and I had the AC on. I was only driving about 5 miles to a garden shop to pick up a part for my lawn mower. Halfway back I looked at the temp gauge and it was at the 224 mark and rising! I switched ac off and it dropped to just above the centre. 4-5 hours later when I went out and switched the ignition on, the gauge read 1-2 marks off C! It is pretty flat here (South East London)!

It's been normal since then.

Light Khaki 2005 CRD Sport. TJM type 17 bumper, extended breathers, Grabber AT2s
GreenDieselEngineering
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Joined: 10/07/2009 07:25:47
Messages: 348
Location: Southeast Michigan
Lancer,

Is your CRD a 2005 or 2006? That seems a bit hot for daily drving...even in warm weather. You were very close to the thresdhold for when the mechanical fan would engage. If this happened you would be able to here an audible roar from the engine compartment as the fan is very loud. With the AC on, the electric fan is usually on low speed and with the high ambient temps it probably was on high speed due to the elevated AC head pressures.

If it happens again just keep everything on, don't turn off AC. Pull over and check the front grill area to listen for the electric fan at idle, it should be on. If not the electric fan may have an issue. Any chance you have build-up on the condensor or radiator from bugs, cottonwood, dirt or other particles? We do off-road mudding from time to time and have seen massive amount of mud and dirt collected in the cooling system on our vehicles...a good washing with the hose keeps the cooling pack clean.
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SVO Ryan
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Joined: 20/07/2009 01:07:28
Messages: 10
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GreenDieselEngineering wrote:For those vehicles that have not had the cluster updated per TSB 08-043-05 to cure the mis-reading of the coolant temperature, here is how the gauge indicates and the relevant information:



(Click on the picture for the full-size version of course)

If you go to a dealer, the TSB should be applied for free. After the TSB, the gauge will read as it does in the first picture.

If I have the TSB done will that over ride the ECM and require a reflash by you?

Ryan
2005 Liberty CRD
GDE Tune//TransGo Shift Kit//PML Deep Pan//MBRP Exhaust//LoTek Dual Gauge Pod//ProSport Tranny Temp and Boost Gauges
1986 Mustang SVO
GreenDieselEngineering
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Joined: 10/07/2009 07:25:47
Messages: 348
Location: Southeast Michigan
The coolant gauge TSB is a flash update to the cluster controller, this is a separate module and will not effect the GDE tune.
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mngoat

Joined: 16/12/2009 12:46:19
Messages: 9
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I'm having trouble getting the cab to heat up well in my 2005. As to my knowledge i haven't had the flash done. In the past my temp needle has always been right on the first line before the halfway point or the 167 spot on the non flashed gauge.(summer/winter)This winter the needle is sitting just a whisker over the second mark before halfway and I'm not getting as much heat in the cab as usual. Do you think this could be a sticky thermostat? Engine seems to heat up just as fast as it used to...I have put cardboard in the eight slots in the front grill and that made no difference at all as far as the temperature. Any thought b/4 i take a chance and pull the thermostat are appreciated. Thanks. Viscous heater seems to be working properly also.
Lancer

Joined: 15/07/2009 02:30:43
Messages: 18
Location: London, England
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GreenDieselEngineering wrote:Lancer,

Is your CRD a 2005 or 2006? That seems a bit hot for daily drving...even in warm weather. You were very close to the thresdhold for when the mechanical fan would engage. If this happened you would be able to here an audible roar from the engine compartment as the fan is very loud. With the AC on, the electric fan is usually on low speed and with the high ambient temps it probably was on high speed due to the elevated AC head pressures.

If it happens again just keep everything on, don't turn off AC. Pull over and check the front grill area to listen for the electric fan at idle, it should be on. If not the electric fan may have an issue. Any chance you have build-up on the condensor or radiator from bugs, cottonwood, dirt or other particles? We do off-road mudding from time to time and have seen massive amount of mud and dirt collected in the cooling system on our vehicles...a good washing with the hose keeps the cooling pack clean.


Sorry - I've only just spotted this. It's a 2005. The mechanical fan wasn't on. No, there was no build up, just the usual number of bugs on the radiator grill.Thanks for the tip - if it happens again, I'll follow your advice. Unlikely now for a few months)

Light Khaki 2005 CRD Sport. TJM type 17 bumper, extended breathers, Grabber AT2s
ibedonc

Joined: 09/09/2010 12:57:03
Messages: 4
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I take that a 2006 does not need the reflash ?

I was pulling 3500# RV and it was getting to the 234 mark as you have on your first post.

JoBo

Joined: 01/07/2010 20:32:46
Messages: 2
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ibedonc wrote:I take that a 2006 does not need the reflash ?


I know this is a old post But my January build 06 crd needed the flash too. So instead of model year I think a build date is the determining factor but don't know what it would be
ibedonc

Joined: 09/09/2010 12:57:03
Messages: 4
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I just looked at my 06 , it was made in 08/05 , so there is a chance it will need it
 
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