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Turbo Kit Installation Instructions  RSS feed
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GreenDieselEngineering
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Joined: 10/07/2009 07:25:47
Messages: 353
Location: Southeast Michigan
The following link will take you to a pdf file that details the turbo installation including step-by-step instructions and pictures.

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/view.php?id=1726099&da=y

The file is almost 2 meg and takes a little bit to download. This is a good review to know the workload and to determine if you feel comfortable completing the job or sending it out to a local mechanic.

GDE

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TDIwyse

Joined: 01/10/2009 06:58:20
Messages: 54
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I've been reading through the instructions and have a few questions.

On step 17 you mention cutting 3 inches from of the flex joint and then the next sentence you say to sand the last 4 inches of the cut pipe for a clean welding surface. Wouldn't you only have ~3 inches of surface to sand? Or are you supposed to cut 4 inches from the flex joint?

On step 22 & 28 regarding the turbo oil drain and the rubber block fitting: I've heard some people say its easier to insert the drain back into the block if you remove the rubber fitting first, attach to the drain and re-insert the two together. Since I've never done this, do you have any comments on which method is easier/better?

On step 29 it doesn't sound like using a torque wrench is going to be practical. How forgiving is getting the torque exactly 25 ft-lbs?

On step 33 and the welding process: Could an exhaust pipe clamp be used instead of the welding? It seems the interface is horizontal with lots of material overlap so the possibility of the union falling out would be minimal . . .

All in all this seems like a great kit you guys have engineered. I'm looking forward to hearing some feedback on this kit.

2006 Liberty Limited CRD
2004 Ram Quad Cab 4x4 Cummins
2001 VW Jetta TDI
1990 YJ with 2006 Cummins B3.3T
GreenDieselEngineering
[Avatar]

Joined: 10/07/2009 07:25:47
Messages: 353
Location: Southeast Michigan
On step 17 you mention cutting 3 inches from of the flex joint and then the next sentence you say to sand the last 4 inches of the cut pipe for a clean welding surface. Wouldn't you only have ~3 inches of surface to sand? Or are you supposed to cut 4 inches from the flex joint?

That is a typo with the four inches, we will update the instructions to fix that. Thanks for catching it. 3 inches is the correct number, but it is always a good idea to test fit the downpipe prior to cutting due to vehicle variation in the exhaust system (+/- 1/2 inch).

On step 22 & 28 regarding the turbo oil drain and the rubber block fitting: I've heard some people say its easier to insert the drain back into the block if you remove the rubber fitting first, attach to the drain and re-insert the two together. Since I've never done this, do you have any comments on which method is easier/better?

We will add in a comment to spray some WD-40 or similar on the portion of the oil drain pipe that slides into the rubber fitting. This makes it very easy to install.

On step 29 it doesn't sound like using a torque wrench is going to be practical. How forgiving is getting the torque exactly 25 ft-lbs?

Using a good feel with suffice for the torque in hard to reach bolts. Torque a bolt by hand to a guestimated 25 ft-lb using the tool that will be used for the job, then check with a torque wrench to see how close you are. This test can be accomplished outside the vehicle with vise, bolt and nut.

On step 33 and the welding process: Could an exhaust pipe clamp be used instead of the welding? It seems the interface is horizontal with lots of material overlap so the possibility of the union falling out would be minimal . . .

The slip fit is fairly tight and you could use a clamp if so desired. We did this at first, but there was some exhaust gas leakage around the clamp. Due to the high strength of the stainless steel exhaust, it is very difficult for a clamp to provide enough pressure for a tight seal.


Thanks for the feedback.
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CRD Joe
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Joined: 18/07/2009 21:11:02
Messages: 49
Location: Seattle, Washington
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Hey GDE guys, any chance youll offer installation is someone drives to your location???

'05 CRD
Suncoast, Transco, Inmotion, Provent, ORM Snorkle, HID's, 2.5" Cat back no muffler, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Cat 2 filter
GreenDieselEngineering
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Joined: 10/07/2009 07:25:47
Messages: 353
Location: Southeast Michigan
We can arrange to do the turbo install at a local shop in the area if the customer so desires. Drive-ins are definitely welcome, just need to work out the logistics as we do not yet have a shop of our own. Not sure driving in from Seattle would be worth it, unless you wanted a good cross country trip.
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TDIwyse

Joined: 01/10/2009 06:58:20
Messages: 54
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If someone where to have a CRD with consistently stubborn siezed bolts/nuts/fasteners in every place they have ever tried to remove something . . . where would you expect the most troublesome item(s) in this process to be located? I'd like to "test" these to see how much trouble I might be getting myself into . . .

2006 Liberty Limited CRD
2004 Ram Quad Cab 4x4 Cummins
2001 VW Jetta TDI
1990 YJ with 2006 Cummins B3.3T
GreenDieselEngineering
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Joined: 10/07/2009 07:25:47
Messages: 353
Location: Southeast Michigan
The 4 nuts that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold tend to cause the most headaches. They are difficult to access and tend to shear the exhaust manifold studs if seized. We include 4 new studs with the kit...just in case. Always a good idea to spray these with penetrating oil a few hours before attempting to remove. Whe we re-assembled our vehicle with the turbo kit, we always use some high temp anti-seize on the threads to make future maintenance much less painful.
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TDIwyse

Joined: 01/10/2009 06:58:20
Messages: 54
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GreenDieselEngineering wrote:They are difficult to access and tend to shear the exhaust manifold studs if seized. We include 4 new studs with the kit...just in case.


Just curious . . . if one shear the studs in the exhaust manifold how do you get the remaining part of the stud out? Is this a drill and re-tap kind of effort? Can it be done with the manifold on the engine or do you have to remove the manifold?


2006 Liberty Limited CRD
2004 Ram Quad Cab 4x4 Cummins
2001 VW Jetta TDI
1990 YJ with 2006 Cummins B3.3T
GreenDieselEngineering
[Avatar]

Joined: 10/07/2009 07:25:47
Messages: 353
Location: Southeast Michigan
The remaining portion of the stud stuck in the exhaust manifold can be pulled out without removing the manifold from the engine. The easiest method for us has been drilling a small pilot hold in the broken off stud and then using a type of easy-out grabber, which bites into the stud and allows the stud to be backed out. The easy-out fits into a drill and looks like a small tapered carbide burr that grabs and digs into the stud when rotated counter clockwise. We would avoid drilling and re-tapping the manifold if at all possible, this is very time-consuming and may allow small pieces of metal to blow through the turbo if not careful.
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