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Messages posted by: GreenDieselEngineering
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Bio fuel does act as a natural solvent, however at the levels of B2 or B5 it is doubtful that it will have much of a cleaning effect due to the low concentration. At those levels of bio fuel the fuel economy impact should be almost negligible. With concentrations of B50 or B100 the drop in fuel economy will be more noticeable in the range of 4-5% for B50 and 8-10% for B100. One good thing is bio is bio degradable and will not harm the environment if spilled on the ground or in the gulf of Mexico for instance.
The drain back valve would only effect the first engagement, not the situation you just mentioned. A new TC is peace of mind in your situation as it will only keep deteriorating. Don't wait too long as eventually particles can go through the system and damage the pump if anything gets past the filters.
The stalling is a good sign that the TC is nearing the end of its useable life. A leaking drainback valve may alse be an issue here, but typically if is fails the trans will just not engage reverse when selected and after 10-20 seconds the pump finally pushes enough fluid back into the circuit to allow engagement and torque transfer. If this engagement is abrupt it could potentially cause an engine stall.
In order to give good access to the TCM, the vacuum reservoir assembly needs to be moved. A long phillips screwdriver will remove the two bolts holding the unit to the fender. Once this is complete the two 10mm nuts holding the TCM bracket to the inner fender need to be removed and the bracket can be unmounted to give better access to the TCM connector. The connector is removed with an 8mm socket (counter clockwise to loosen). After a few turns while the bolt feels like there is still resistance it helps to pry on the tabs with a flat screwdriver to make sure the connector is coming out evenly. It also helps to wiggle the connector and assist pulling it out a bit. After the connector feels loose, the bolt should be able to turn using the socket and your hand. Now remove the TCM and bracket from the vehicle and remove the bracket from the TCM (3 bolts). Installation is in the reverse order. Below is a link to several pictures detailing the removal process.

http://www.keepandshare.com/photo/345038/kj-crd-tcm-removal-instructions&fv=y&vo=fs

AZCRDGuy wrote:I purchased a used 2005 CRD (36k miles) in October 2009 from a Jeep Dealership in Mesa, AZ. I'm wondering if the new Mopar torque converter might have been installed in it.

I have not done any trailer towing yet.

Can you tell via engine computer codes or does one have to look at a part number on the TC? Would Chrysler have service records from previous owner that would indicate that a service tech could look up at a dealership?

Also, what do you folks at GDE think is better, the new Mopar or Suncoast?

I am planning on getting one of your tune kits soon, but I am trying to decide if I want to do TC upgrade and Hot Tune, or just get the EcoTune now and do TC upgrade later.



There is no way to tell if the new Mopar TC is installed or not. Do you know when the TC was swapped? The Euro TC only became available around September 2009. It does not even have the part number stamped on the unit for traceability...at least the two we purchased didn't.

We have not tested the Suncoast TC and are not in a good position to determine which unit is better for the KJ. Suncoast increases the inertia, which will help to reduce the impact of the cyclic torsionals from the engine firing frequency. It might be worthwhile to start a topic on the LOST forum asking Suncoast users if the shudder is eliminated when running aftermarket performance tunes. It would also be beneficial to know from Suncoast if they increase the lock-up clutch spring capacity as this is the root cause for shudder with the stock TC.
Anonymous wrote:GDE; (i am crdmiller)

If you have the trans go shift kit, and the in line resister, is the gde tcm tune still safe? should the resister be removed (if you guys increase pump pressure somehow)

Is this safe for vehicles with larger tiers? I have 32's and my revs/mile are not near stock. Thank you



We did not touch the line pressure as this could potentially push it past design limits and lessen the trans life. The goal was to maximize lock-up and, speed up the shifts when locked and allow trailer towing flexibility. The shift kit should not cause any issues with the trans tune and the tires will not have an effect either.

In 4th and 5th gear we do allow the trans to stay locked-up down to 1200 rpm while coasting (0% accel pedal) as this reduces fuel consumption. If the pedal is pushed while coasting with the rpm between 1200-1450rpm, it will unlock immediately.
stoutdog wrote:
GreenDieselEngineering wrote:At this time we do not have any spare TCMs to do an exchange program, we are waiting on receiving an order of extra parts. The trans tune has been tested on aftermarket and stock torque converters and both seem to show good behavior thus far. We are a little concerned about the longevity of the stock TC in any case, but this just relates to the strength of the lock-up clutch springs. We did our best to make everything transparent and work well with the various hardware available on the KJ.


By this, do you mean that you are concerned about the longevity of the stock TC regardless of whether or not you have a tune? I don't particularly want to rapidly accelerate the death of my TC and then have to fork over another couple hundred bucks.



Yes we are concerned about the longevity of the stock TC regardless of what tune is in the vehicle as it is a borderline design. The trans tune should not cause shudder with stock engine power or with the ECO tune. There may be more driveline "grumble" when the trans is locked-up from 1400 rpm to 1600 rpm, but this is normal and will not cause long-term issues. It is just a function of the excitation frequency and the driveline stiffness...sorry for the engineer speak.
At this time we do not have any spare TCMs to do an exchange program, we are waiting on receiving an order of extra parts. The trans tune has been tested on aftermarket and stock torque converters and both seem to show good behavior thus far. We are a little concerned about the longevity of the stock TC in any case, but this just relates to the strength of the lock-up clutch springs. We did our best to make everything transparent and work well with the various hardware available on the KJ.
We have finalized a tune for the CRD to help with city fuel economy, towing and quicker shifting. This tune is not compareable to the pre-F37 stock TCM. The tune provides 3rd gear lock-up at 35 mph, 4th gear lock-up at 46mph and 5th gear lock-up at 58mph. Shifting is quicker due to allowing lock-to-lock shifts. In city driving conditions the tune provides more connected feel to the drivetrain and eliminates the constant rpm change everytime the accel pedal is pressed, thus providing a good fuel economy gain in city. With more lock-up the trans fluid temps stay lower due to less heat load from the torque converter.

The tune also helps with towing by allowing the customer the option to tow at 55mph in 3rd, 4th, or 5th lock-up. 3rd is available by using the OD off button and the trans will pull in 4th if one accelerates to 55mph and sets the cruise or just maintains speed. 5th is possible by accelerating above 58mph and then slowing down to 55mph. It will hold 5th gear down to 52mph.

During the vehicle warm-up the transmission will not lock-up until the trans fluid reaches normal operating temps...this is the same as stock during the warm-up.

This tune requires sending us the transmission controller (TCM). We will be adding step by step directions for removing this module soon.

Are there any ECO tune users that have the stock torque converter? If so, are you planning to install an aftermarket unit down the road?

Thanks for your input.
DynoPax,

If you upgrade your TC to the euro style then you will be fine with the HOT tune irregardless of the TCM tune. The pre-F37 TCM tune will only improve fuel economy as it has lower vehicle speeds required to be in lock-up.

Thanks,
GDE
It could have been a slow shift, this sometimes happens with the transmission, but it is not common. Did you try the same acceleration a few times to check if the shift is consistent? We usually see the 2-3 shift between 3900-4100 rpm. No re-learn is necessary for the transmission controller, unless you just had it flashed. Let us know how this develops.

Thanks, GDE
Don't forget a prototype adapter plate to allow the engine to mate with the manual tranny and a solid flywheel is necessary with the diesel bolt pattern that mates to the pressure plate for the tranny chosen. Since these need to be machined, the cost will increase substantially. We are already working on a manual KJ tune for the Australian market, so the software side should not be a stumbling block. Unless most of the parts come from a wrecked vehicle, it would be difficult to develop a swap kit for under $5000. However, the capability and bragging rights of a manual diesel Jeep in the US might be worth it.
Well, those number are phenomenal! You are not the average customer and obviously like to test the vehicle to the max. The fact that nothing broke in the driveline while doing aggressive brake torque lauches is a testament to the KJ hardware. On a down note, your fuel economy on this tank might not be very good, but a 7.6sec 0-60 more than makes up for that. Thanks for the continued feedback. GDE
The main reason to have the latest part number release is to prevent a dealer from reflashing the ECU and erasing the tune when in for service as many will routinely check for TSB updates and flash vehicle as standard practice. Since you are using this as a second ECU for tune only, there is no negative associated with the older part numbers. The tune will perform the same and we inlcude all of the good aspects within the TSB updates and leave out any unecessary changes.

Go ahead with the ECU purchase if it is going to be dedicated for tuning.
 
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