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Messages posted by: GreenDieselEngineering
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The CRD is prone to lose around 10% of its fuel efficiency during winter months. This is partly due to winter fuel having less BTUs than the summer blends, however it is also related to the much cooler air entering the engine and lower coolant temps.

Options to reduce loss in fuel efficiency:

1. Remove the accordian style air inlet snorkel at the front of the air cleaner. This will allow the engine to ingest warmer engine compartment air through the air filter and tends to improve FE.

2. Remove mechanical fan during winter months (if not planning to tow a trailer). This will tend to reduce air flow through the radiator and reduce engine load at the same time.

3. Block a portion of the front of the radiator to reduce the amount of cold fresh air that naturally flow through it. This can have the largest impact and may need some fine tuning in regards to percentage blocked vs. temperature on the coolant gauage. Blocking 50% of the radiator surface is a good starting point.
Mikey1273,

With the GDE tunes the engine tends to run slightly cooler as less fuel is required to achieve the necessary torque while driving or idling. On our vehicles the coolant temps tend to run around 170-180 F, right around thermostat start of opening with a bias towards 170 F during winter months. You can remove the according snorkel on the front of the air box to allow warmer engine compartment air to get pulled through the air filter. As it gets even colder, we will most likely remove the mechanical fan for the winter or just block a portion of the radiator from the fresh air stream.

Also, keep in mind we lowered the threshold to turn off the viscous heater while the engine is warming up. Oringinally the VH would remain on until the coolant temps went above 161 F and would turn back on if the temps dipped below 150 F. With the tune, the VH will turn off during warmup when coolant reaches 131 F and turn back on when temps dip below 122 F.
The flash tool is $300 and the engine tunes are $450. Our tunes already fix the EGR issue and do much more to improve drivability and fuel economy. We looked into a manual conversion, but at the very low volumes it is not a worthwhile venture due to the design cost of a single mass flywheel and unique adapter plate.
In the end it is a wash, just the core deposit to ensure we get the stock TCM back for the next customer. The TCMs are not tied to the vehicle with VIN or any sort of security.
We can tune the KJ engine ECU to work on a TJ application. The options include setting it up for a manual trans or using the 545RFE automatic trans. With either option we would need to work out some details to properly obtain the vehicle speed information. This is sent via the CAN bus on the KJ and most likely will require some work unless the wheel speed sensors from the KJ are carried over on the TJ. It would be best if you can find a wrecked KJ to swap parts from as this would substantially reduce your costs.
As of 24 Sep 2010, we received a fix from Alientech that now allows the flash tool to link and communicate with Windows 7. Please email us if running Windows 7, the fix must be installed prior to running the software the first time.
The flash tool will not work with the trans tune as the protocol is different. The trans tune is best suited for a TCM exchange to keep the CRD on the road except when swapping out the controller.
It should be roughly the same procedure as the right side mount, however, the lower nut might require a little more finess to gain access to and loosen. Good Luck!
Do you have a CEL on? The TC is a very common failure point. I would suggest running the CRD very hard every 2000 miles or so to get the exhaust temps very hot and burn off residual soot particles that tend to accumulate on the catalyst over time. This can be accomplished with wide open throttle accelerations from 45-75mph repeated 7 times. Pulling a heavy load up a grade will also achieve the same goal. This process keeps the exhaust restiction to a minimum and can help with turbo response issues.

The tune will restore the lost punch an also add some you never had to begin with! The TC can be fixed before or after the tune...but it will eventually need to be fixed.
We were able to fix the software with the flash tool manufacturer, so it now works on the 2005 model year and 2006 model year. Thanks for the patience!
The Dakota would make for a great diesel application. The engine controller could be designed as a stand alone unit, but it would need a vehicle speed input and a clutch pedal input for safety. Most of the other sensors could be adapted to function on a Dakota, but the instrument cluster would need a detailed review. Glow plugs could also be standa alone and the light is not necessary if you just wait a couple seconds during the winter months prior to cranking.

The Dakota with the VM diesel was sold in South America was back around 1999-2001 timeframe, but this was with the old tech indirect injection diesel and did not have much get up an go. Most all the auxilliary parts/hardware on that application would not work with the newer style engine.
butcher_block,

We could reflash your ECU to allow it to function with the 6-speed. The hard part will be getting all the mechanical hardware stateside at a reasonable cost.
Yes, both sides use the same mount. The driver's side should allow for easier access.
The Jeep Liberty CRD is equipped with hydromounts that do a better job isolating the engine vibration from the body as compared with more conventional mounts. However, the durability of the hydromount is not the best and tends to break internally with vehicle mileage above 70,000 miles. When this occurs the vibration will be increased when idling in gear. If the noise/vibration is higher while idling in drive compared to reverse, then the passenger side mount is failed. If the opposite is true then the driver's side is failed. The noise/vibration should be roughly the same in drive and reverse while idling with brake pressed if both mounts are still good. The passenger side mount is more prone to failure as it is loaded more in drive and tends to have higher heat loading due to the close proximity to the exhaust pipe. Below is a link for the passenger side engine mount removal/replacement, be patient with the download as it is a large file:


GDE Engine Mount Replacement Process v4
Zoom_camper,

I hope to address all your questions below:

1. Yes you can arrange to bring the CRD down for an in-vehicle reprogram, it takes about 10 minutes to complete.
2. The torque numbers posted on the website for the ECO tune are in "unlock" mode and this is the same torque output of the "full torque" ECO tune. With the base ECO tune we limit the torque outpout when the TC is locked to a limit around 280 ft-lb.
3. Yes all the faults work as stock.
4. No need for an EGT, but it is a nice to have. For testing purposes we measure EGT downstream of the turbo about 10-15 cm with a tap in the exhaust downpipe.
5. No, the retune will not shorten engine life, it should increase it as the exhaust temps are reduced and the soot accumulation in the engine oil is reduced by about 65%.
6. It will help, but it is dependent on trailer weight and % grade. With an aftermarket TC the torque in lock-up can be increased enough to prevent unwanted downshifting.
7. Yes you can run AC while towing. A 3/4 gauge reading is not hot for this engine, it would need to be pegged in the red zone before the coolant temp liit is reached. The engine will automatically turn off the AC if necessary and limit fuel injection to prevent overheating. The gauge calibration is garbage!
8. The tune will work with any gear ratio.

Let us know if we can be of further assistance.
 
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