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Messages posted by: GreenDieselEngineering
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In order to give good access to the TCM, the vacuum reservoir assembly needs to be moved. A long phillips screwdriver will remove the two bolts holding the unit to the fender. Once this is complete the two 10mm nuts holding the TCM bracket to the inner fender need to be removed and the bracket can be unmounted to give better access to the TCM connector. The connector is removed with an 8mm socket (counter clockwise to loosen). After a few turns while the bolt feels like there is still resistance it helps to pry on the tabs with a flat screwdriver to make sure the connector is coming out evenly. It also helps to wiggle the connector and assist pulling it out a bit. After the connector feels loose, the bolt should be able to turn using the socket and your hand. Now remove the TCM and bracket from the vehicle and remove the bracket from the TCM (3 bolts). Installation is in the reverse order. Below is a link to several pictures detailing the removal process.

http://www.keepandshare.com/photo/345038/kj-crd-tcm-removal-instructions&fv=y&vo=fs

AZCRDGuy wrote:I purchased a used 2005 CRD (36k miles) in October 2009 from a Jeep Dealership in Mesa, AZ. I'm wondering if the new Mopar torque converter might have been installed in it.

I have not done any trailer towing yet.

Can you tell via engine computer codes or does one have to look at a part number on the TC? Would Chrysler have service records from previous owner that would indicate that a service tech could look up at a dealership?

Also, what do you folks at GDE think is better, the new Mopar or Suncoast?

I am planning on getting one of your tune kits soon, but I am trying to decide if I want to do TC upgrade and Hot Tune, or just get the EcoTune now and do TC upgrade later.



There is no way to tell if the new Mopar TC is installed or not. Do you know when the TC was swapped? The Euro TC only became available around September 2009. It does not even have the part number stamped on the unit for traceability...at least the two we purchased didn't.

We have not tested the Suncoast TC and are not in a good position to determine which unit is better for the KJ. Suncoast increases the inertia, which will help to reduce the impact of the cyclic torsionals from the engine firing frequency. It might be worthwhile to start a topic on the LOST forum asking Suncoast users if the shudder is eliminated when running aftermarket performance tunes. It would also be beneficial to know from Suncoast if they increase the lock-up clutch spring capacity as this is the root cause for shudder with the stock TC.
Are there any ECO tune users that have the stock torque converter? If so, are you planning to install an aftermarket unit down the road?

Thanks for your input.
DynoPax,

If you upgrade your TC to the euro style then you will be fine with the HOT tune irregardless of the TCM tune. The pre-F37 TCM tune will only improve fuel economy as it has lower vehicle speeds required to be in lock-up.

Thanks,
GDE
It could have been a slow shift, this sometimes happens with the transmission, but it is not common. Did you try the same acceleration a few times to check if the shift is consistent? We usually see the 2-3 shift between 3900-4100 rpm. No re-learn is necessary for the transmission controller, unless you just had it flashed. Let us know how this develops.

Thanks, GDE
Don't forget a prototype adapter plate to allow the engine to mate with the manual tranny and a solid flywheel is necessary with the diesel bolt pattern that mates to the pressure plate for the tranny chosen. Since these need to be machined, the cost will increase substantially. We are already working on a manual KJ tune for the Australian market, so the software side should not be a stumbling block. Unless most of the parts come from a wrecked vehicle, it would be difficult to develop a swap kit for under $5000. However, the capability and bragging rights of a manual diesel Jeep in the US might be worth it.
Well, those number are phenomenal! You are not the average customer and obviously like to test the vehicle to the max. The fact that nothing broke in the driveline while doing aggressive brake torque lauches is a testament to the KJ hardware. On a down note, your fuel economy on this tank might not be very good, but a 7.6sec 0-60 more than makes up for that. Thanks for the continued feedback. GDE
The main reason to have the latest part number release is to prevent a dealer from reflashing the ECU and erasing the tune when in for service as many will routinely check for TSB updates and flash vehicle as standard practice. Since you are using this as a second ECU for tune only, there is no negative associated with the older part numbers. The tune will perform the same and we inlcude all of the good aspects within the TSB updates and leave out any unecessary changes.

Go ahead with the ECU purchase if it is going to be dedicated for tuning.
Using 3rd gear is the best for performing dyno runs, however you will still have to roll-on the pedal smoothly. If it unlocks you will just have to go with less pedal on the next run. There is no way to prevent it from unlocking if you go full throttle at a fast pace.

Turning the ESP off will help make it easier to launch the vehicle, but if there is a lot of wheel spin it will still manage torque a bit. The "ESP off" does not actually turn the system off, but allows more tire spin before engaging. Launching in 4WD will definitely help reduce the spin and should not hurt anything in the driveline.
So far the KJ is still running right at the start of thermostat opening on teh vehicle we removed the mechanical fan on. The temps have been in the 50s to low 60s and the fule economy is up about 1.5 mpg. We plan on keeping it off throughout the summer until we notice any cooling issues. And of course, no towing with this vehicle.
Tom,

Do you ever experience the "shudder" with the Inmotion and Suncoast converter? The ECO tune returns slightly higher fuel economy gains than the HOT tune, mainly due to the temptation to push the throttle more with the HOT tune. You could also opt for a "full torque" ECO tune, which allows full torque when the transmission is in lock-up (good for towing with an upgraded TC). This option is the best of both worlds. Another consideration for some is the ECO tune has virtually no smoke, whereas the HOT tune will smoke a bit at full throttle.

Incidentally, the turbo kit is the most fuel efficient product we have. When driven conservatively it will have about 2-3% higher fuel economy than the ECO tune. This is due to the higher efficiency of the new turbo and lower intertia of the rotating assembly. When flogged, it can keep up with a V-8 Explorer and still return almost twice the fuel economy.

GDE
The KJ CRD has been plagued with air-in-fuel issues that can cause difficult starting, limp-home situations, stall-outs and sometimes a CEL. P0093 is the most common error code, but P0087 is also possible. The most common root cause for air-in-fuel is a melted connector around the terminals for the fuel heater. This connector is located on the fuel/water separator head assembly. There are two connectors, the heater is the one closest to the driver's side. An easy check is to remove the connector by pressing down on the retention tab and pulling. Then press the fuel primer on the head assembly until it becomes hard to press. Use a light to look inside the heater connector on the head to see if fuel or air is seeping out around the terminals. If evidence of leakage is found a new upgraded fuel head assembly is highly recommended! Over time the air leak will get worse and air can cause premature failure of the Bosch fuel pump inlet metering unit...this is when the solution can get very expensive!

Mopar sells an upgraded fuel/water separator assembly that incorporates a larger heater connector and bigger terminals that are properly sized for the current draw (no heat buildup). The assembly also requires an electrical jumper harness with the new mating connector. The original needs to be cut off and the two exposed wires soldered to the new connector.

Fuel/water separator assembly (with new filter) 68043089AA $76.20

Wire harness kit 68043086AA $10.75

The installation is very straight forward and only takes 10-20 minutes. There are two nuts holding the assembly to the firewall (remove these first), then remove the three electrical connectors on the assembly (3rd one on bottom of filter), loosen clamps on fuel supply lines and remove. Then install new unit and re-assemble.

This mod is a good preventative measure and is a good starting point for anyone currently facing air in fuel issues. There are other potential leak paths in the fuel system, but this one is the issue for the vast majority.

We just modified the power/torque chart to show the differences with the torque output of an F37'd engine controller. 40 ft*lb is a significant drop, but keep in mind this lower torque is only valid when the transmission is in lock-up in 3rd, 4th or 5th gears. If the trans is unlocked then full torque is still available with the same output as the pre-F37 numbers.
The remaining portion of the stud stuck in the exhaust manifold can be pulled out without removing the manifold from the engine. The easiest method for us has been drilling a small pilot hold in the broken off stud and then using a type of easy-out grabber, which bites into the stud and allows the stud to be backed out. The easy-out fits into a drill and looks like a small tapered carbide burr that grabs and digs into the stud when rotated counter clockwise. We would avoid drilling and re-tapping the manifold if at all possible, this is very time-consuming and may allow small pieces of metal to blow through the turbo if not careful.
If you want to demonstrate "shudder" the HOT tune will definitely take care of this and the shudder is easy to stop if you have it by letting off the throttle. The added torque of the HOT tune will be a significant benefit to being able to hold gear longer while pulling a trailer.
 
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