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Messages posted by: GreenDieselEngineering
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Zoom_camper,

I hope to address all your questions below:

1. Yes you can arrange to bring the CRD down for an in-vehicle reprogram, it takes about 10 minutes to complete.
2. The torque numbers posted on the website for the ECO tune are in "unlock" mode and this is the same torque output of the "full torque" ECO tune. With the base ECO tune we limit the torque outpout when the TC is locked to a limit around 280 ft-lb.
3. Yes all the faults work as stock.
4. No need for an EGT, but it is a nice to have. For testing purposes we measure EGT downstream of the turbo about 10-15 cm with a tap in the exhaust downpipe.
5. No, the retune will not shorten engine life, it should increase it as the exhaust temps are reduced and the soot accumulation in the engine oil is reduced by about 65%.
6. It will help, but it is dependent on trailer weight and % grade. With an aftermarket TC the torque in lock-up can be increased enough to prevent unwanted downshifting.
7. Yes you can run AC while towing. A 3/4 gauge reading is not hot for this engine, it would need to be pegged in the red zone before the coolant temp liit is reached. The engine will automatically turn off the AC if necessary and limit fuel injection to prevent overheating. The gauge calibration is garbage!
8. The tune will work with any gear ratio.

Let us know if we can be of further assistance.
The unit is the same price regardless if you are a current customer or not. As a current customer, you would not have to pay for the tune portion and we will work with you to load the tune you are currently running...there is some time involved to create the tune as it must be tailored for each individual customer using the flash tool. This part is going to get time consuming creating a specific tune for each customer.

Let's say you have the flash tool and bought the ECO Tune to go with it. If you want the HOT tune loaded on the programmer as well, this will be an extra charge of $150. This price will hold for each specific additional tune requested for the flash tool.
We now have a Green Diesel specific flash/scan tool available for purchase that allows customers to download tunes and revert back to stock as needed. The flash/scan will also read and clear fault codes.

Below are a couple pictures of the unit:

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From Flash/Scan Tool</td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From Flash/Scan Tool</td></tr></table>

The link below provides installation instructions, please be aware a PC is required for the software to function.

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/2444399/gde-flash-tool-user-guide-jeep-pdf-december-15-2010-9-24-am-108k?da=y
At this time we only have the one tune for the turbo kit and it meets the design criteria for turbo speed limits. We could do a secondary tune for short burst of power, but this most likely will exceed the cylinder pressure limits and turbo speed limits a bit. The short bursts most likely would not be detrimental to the head, but we would have to increase the smoke levels at high rpm because the turbo bearings do not like to be oversped.

Just to clarify, the flash tool takes a couple minutes to download the tune and requires the engine off with the ignition on. Not as fast as a switch, but it gets the job done!
Zoom_camper,

The relatively small difference in power and torque are the only similarities between the GDE tunes and Immotion tunes. The fuel efficiency of the GDE tune is one of our core selling features, that alone more than covers the price difference. However, we also have several other features to spice up the GDE tunes including minimizing EGR issues, smoother driveline torsionals, improved launch, mimimal smoke, linear acceleration with no holes in the performance feeling, linear fuel gauge, etc. Here is another page on our website with more details on our development process and engineering validation.

http://www.greendieselengineering.com/goPage.do?method=calbDtl

http://www.greendieselengineering.com/goPage.do?method=calbVal

Thanks for your interest!
Zoom_camper,

There are a couple good options for aftermarket TCs...this should be first on your list. Once the driveline is in good order the full torque ECO tune will provide a good benefit to towing, even better with the trans tune. You can always get the tune first, but you will have to drive around the shudder from time to time. A few little fixes and the CRD will be around for a long time!
We have not used a scangauge, but heard many stories on the LOST forum describing the same issue you mentioned. The issue is the same regardless of stock or tuned, it seems to be a function of the gateway bus (converts the CAN to J1850 or J1939)...too many protocols and it sometimes 'hiccups'. It should be fine to code scan, but you may want to do the scan right after plugging it in...as you stated it works better! Is your CEL on?
Dave,

Thanks for the update. Can you post pictures of the installation either here or on LOST? Is the set-up still running with one hole drilled through the in-line t-stat? The FE improvement is definitely worth while. You would need to perform some A to B testing with the mechanical fan re-installed to better understand the % split between the higher operating temps vs. having the fan removed.

As for the transmission operation...it must be a vivid imagination as the shift points are coded in the logic and will not change on their own. The engine should be slightly quieter with the increased liner temps.

This is good stuff and many people are interested in this option.
Bio fuel does act as a natural solvent, however at the levels of B2 or B5 it is doubtful that it will have much of a cleaning effect due to the low concentration. At those levels of bio fuel the fuel economy impact should be almost negligible. With concentrations of B50 or B100 the drop in fuel economy will be more noticeable in the range of 4-5% for B50 and 8-10% for B100. One good thing is bio is bio degradable and will not harm the environment if spilled on the ground or in the gulf of Mexico for instance.
The drain back valve would only effect the first engagement, not the situation you just mentioned. A new TC is peace of mind in your situation as it will only keep deteriorating. Don't wait too long as eventually particles can go through the system and damage the pump if anything gets past the filters.
The stalling is a good sign that the TC is nearing the end of its useable life. A leaking drainback valve may alse be an issue here, but typically if is fails the trans will just not engage reverse when selected and after 10-20 seconds the pump finally pushes enough fluid back into the circuit to allow engagement and torque transfer. If this engagement is abrupt it could potentially cause an engine stall.
In order to give good access to the TCM, the vacuum reservoir assembly needs to be moved. A long phillips screwdriver will remove the two bolts holding the unit to the fender. Once this is complete the two 10mm nuts holding the TCM bracket to the inner fender need to be removed and the bracket can be unmounted to give better access to the TCM connector. The connector is removed with an 8mm socket (counter clockwise to loosen). After a few turns while the bolt feels like there is still resistance it helps to pry on the tabs with a flat screwdriver to make sure the connector is coming out evenly. It also helps to wiggle the connector and assist pulling it out a bit. After the connector feels loose, the bolt should be able to turn using the socket and your hand. Now remove the TCM and bracket from the vehicle and remove the bracket from the TCM (3 bolts). Installation is in the reverse order. Below is a link to several pictures detailing the removal process.

http://www.keepandshare.com/photo/345038/kj-crd-tcm-removal-instructions&fv=y&vo=fs

AZCRDGuy wrote:I purchased a used 2005 CRD (36k miles) in October 2009 from a Jeep Dealership in Mesa, AZ. I'm wondering if the new Mopar torque converter might have been installed in it.

I have not done any trailer towing yet.

Can you tell via engine computer codes or does one have to look at a part number on the TC? Would Chrysler have service records from previous owner that would indicate that a service tech could look up at a dealership?

Also, what do you folks at GDE think is better, the new Mopar or Suncoast?

I am planning on getting one of your tune kits soon, but I am trying to decide if I want to do TC upgrade and Hot Tune, or just get the EcoTune now and do TC upgrade later.



There is no way to tell if the new Mopar TC is installed or not. Do you know when the TC was swapped? The Euro TC only became available around September 2009. It does not even have the part number stamped on the unit for traceability...at least the two we purchased didn't.

We have not tested the Suncoast TC and are not in a good position to determine which unit is better for the KJ. Suncoast increases the inertia, which will help to reduce the impact of the cyclic torsionals from the engine firing frequency. It might be worthwhile to start a topic on the LOST forum asking Suncoast users if the shudder is eliminated when running aftermarket performance tunes. It would also be beneficial to know from Suncoast if they increase the lock-up clutch spring capacity as this is the root cause for shudder with the stock TC.
Are there any ECO tune users that have the stock torque converter? If so, are you planning to install an aftermarket unit down the road?

Thanks for your input.
DynoPax,

If you upgrade your TC to the euro style then you will be fine with the HOT tune irregardless of the TCM tune. The pre-F37 TCM tune will only improve fuel economy as it has lower vehicle speeds required to be in lock-up.

Thanks,
GDE
 
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