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Messages posted by: GreenDieselEngineering
Forum Index » Profile for GreenDieselEngineering » Messages posted by GreenDieselEngineering
It could have been a slow shift, this sometimes happens with the transmission, but it is not common. Did you try the same acceleration a few times to check if the shift is consistent? We usually see the 2-3 shift between 3900-4100 rpm. No re-learn is necessary for the transmission controller, unless you just had it flashed. Let us know how this develops.

Thanks, GDE
Don't forget a prototype adapter plate to allow the engine to mate with the manual tranny and a solid flywheel is necessary with the diesel bolt pattern that mates to the pressure plate for the tranny chosen. Since these need to be machined, the cost will increase substantially. We are already working on a manual KJ tune for the Australian market, so the software side should not be a stumbling block. Unless most of the parts come from a wrecked vehicle, it would be difficult to develop a swap kit for under $5000. However, the capability and bragging rights of a manual diesel Jeep in the US might be worth it.
Well, those number are phenomenal! You are not the average customer and obviously like to test the vehicle to the max. The fact that nothing broke in the driveline while doing aggressive brake torque lauches is a testament to the KJ hardware. On a down note, your fuel economy on this tank might not be very good, but a 7.6sec 0-60 more than makes up for that. Thanks for the continued feedback. GDE
The main reason to have the latest part number release is to prevent a dealer from reflashing the ECU and erasing the tune when in for service as many will routinely check for TSB updates and flash vehicle as standard practice. Since you are using this as a second ECU for tune only, there is no negative associated with the older part numbers. The tune will perform the same and we inlcude all of the good aspects within the TSB updates and leave out any unecessary changes.

Go ahead with the ECU purchase if it is going to be dedicated for tuning.
Using 3rd gear is the best for performing dyno runs, however you will still have to roll-on the pedal smoothly. If it unlocks you will just have to go with less pedal on the next run. There is no way to prevent it from unlocking if you go full throttle at a fast pace.

Turning the ESP off will help make it easier to launch the vehicle, but if there is a lot of wheel spin it will still manage torque a bit. The "ESP off" does not actually turn the system off, but allows more tire spin before engaging. Launching in 4WD will definitely help reduce the spin and should not hurt anything in the driveline.
So far the KJ is still running right at the start of thermostat opening on teh vehicle we removed the mechanical fan on. The temps have been in the 50s to low 60s and the fule economy is up about 1.5 mpg. We plan on keeping it off throughout the summer until we notice any cooling issues. And of course, no towing with this vehicle.

Do you ever experience the "shudder" with the Inmotion and Suncoast converter? The ECO tune returns slightly higher fuel economy gains than the HOT tune, mainly due to the temptation to push the throttle more with the HOT tune. You could also opt for a "full torque" ECO tune, which allows full torque when the transmission is in lock-up (good for towing with an upgraded TC). This option is the best of both worlds. Another consideration for some is the ECO tune has virtually no smoke, whereas the HOT tune will smoke a bit at full throttle.

Incidentally, the turbo kit is the most fuel efficient product we have. When driven conservatively it will have about 2-3% higher fuel economy than the ECO tune. This is due to the higher efficiency of the new turbo and lower intertia of the rotating assembly. When flogged, it can keep up with a V-8 Explorer and still return almost twice the fuel economy.

The KJ CRD has been plagued with air-in-fuel issues that can cause difficult starting, limp-home situations, stall-outs and sometimes a CEL. P0093 is the most common error code, but P0087 is also possible. The most common root cause for air-in-fuel is a melted connector around the terminals for the fuel heater. This connector is located on the fuel/water separator head assembly. There are two connectors, the heater is the one closest to the driver's side. An easy check is to remove the connector by pressing down on the retention tab and pulling. Then press the fuel primer on the head assembly until it becomes hard to press. Use a light to look inside the heater connector on the head to see if fuel or air is seeping out around the terminals. If evidence of leakage is found a new upgraded fuel head assembly is highly recommended! Over time the air leak will get worse and air can cause premature failure of the Bosch fuel pump inlet metering unit...this is when the solution can get very expensive!

Mopar sells an upgraded fuel/water separator assembly that incorporates a larger heater connector and bigger terminals that are properly sized for the current draw (no heat buildup). The assembly also requires an electrical jumper harness with the new mating connector. The original needs to be cut off and the two exposed wires soldered to the new connector.

Fuel/water separator assembly (with new filter) 68043089AA $76.20

Wire harness kit 68043086AA $10.75

The installation is very straight forward and only takes 10-20 minutes. There are two nuts holding the assembly to the firewall (remove these first), then remove the three electrical connectors on the assembly (3rd one on bottom of filter), loosen clamps on fuel supply lines and remove. Then install new unit and re-assemble.

This mod is a good preventative measure and is a good starting point for anyone currently facing air in fuel issues. There are other potential leak paths in the fuel system, but this one is the issue for the vast majority.

The remaining portion of the stud stuck in the exhaust manifold can be pulled out without removing the manifold from the engine. The easiest method for us has been drilling a small pilot hold in the broken off stud and then using a type of easy-out grabber, which bites into the stud and allows the stud to be backed out. The easy-out fits into a drill and looks like a small tapered carbide burr that grabs and digs into the stud when rotated counter clockwise. We would avoid drilling and re-tapping the manifold if at all possible, this is very time-consuming and may allow small pieces of metal to blow through the turbo if not careful.
If you want to demonstrate "shudder" the HOT tune will definitely take care of this and the shudder is easy to stop if you have it by letting off the throttle. The added torque of the HOT tune will be a significant benefit to being able to hold gear longer while pulling a trailer.
How does the accuracy of the EVIC now compare with the EVIC when stock? Based on your measurements we could maybe tweak it a little more. Would you be interested in a replacement ecu with a new setting to test?
You have the makings of a good way to improve the KJs' fuel economy next winter. The mechanical fan helps throw the heat toward the airbox and with your "winter" snorkel it should have a significant effect.

Low speed was the main reason to have the snorkel routed in front of the radiator due to high levels of heat soak and recirculation, at higher speeds flow through the engine bay is fairly high and some spots are hotter than others.
The 4 nuts that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold tend to cause the most headaches. They are difficult to access and tend to shear the exhaust manifold studs if seized. We include 4 new studs with the kit...just in case. Always a good idea to spray these with penetrating oil a few hours before attempting to remove. Whe we re-assembled our vehicle with the turbo kit, we always use some high temp anti-seize on the threads to make future maintenance much less painful.
The full torque ECO tune would have some efficiency advantages when pulling loads. It will be easier to stay in lock-up and have good acceleration at the same time. In normal city driving the difference is zero. You can wait for the TC decision until after the tune, if the shudder is not too bad you can drive around it for thousands of miles while deciding on the upgrade.

The ECU does have controls to limit the combustion temperatures, but these are only active when the exhaust temps approach 1200 F. This typically only occurs if pulling a fully loaded trailer in 100+ F weather. The boost and BOI along with some fuel limitations are all utilized to keep the combustion temps within goal. However, none of these are active at lower coolant temps where your vehicle seems to be running.
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