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Messages posted by: GreenDieselEngineering
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How does the accuracy of the EVIC now compare with the EVIC when stock? Based on your measurements we could maybe tweak it a little more. Would you be interested in a replacement ecu with a new setting to test?
You have the makings of a good way to improve the KJs' fuel economy next winter. The mechanical fan helps throw the heat toward the airbox and with your "winter" snorkel it should have a significant effect.

Low speed was the main reason to have the snorkel routed in front of the radiator due to high levels of heat soak and recirculation, at higher speeds flow through the engine bay is fairly high and some spots are hotter than others.
The 4 nuts that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold tend to cause the most headaches. They are difficult to access and tend to shear the exhaust manifold studs if seized. We include 4 new studs with the kit...just in case. Always a good idea to spray these with penetrating oil a few hours before attempting to remove. Whe we re-assembled our vehicle with the turbo kit, we always use some high temp anti-seize on the threads to make future maintenance much less painful.
The full torque ECO tune would have some efficiency advantages when pulling loads. It will be easier to stay in lock-up and have good acceleration at the same time. In normal city driving the difference is zero. You can wait for the TC decision until after the tune, if the shudder is not too bad you can drive around it for thousands of miles while deciding on the upgrade.
Dave,

The ECU does have controls to limit the combustion temperatures, but these are only active when the exhaust temps approach 1200 F. This typically only occurs if pulling a fully loaded trailer in 100+ F weather. The boost and BOI along with some fuel limitations are all utilized to keep the combustion temps within goal. However, none of these are active at lower coolant temps where your vehicle seems to be running.
We do not want to advocate the usage or removal of the provent. This is more of a personal preference for each customer. We are located in a area where the winters can cause potential freeze-up issues if the CCV lines get too long and that is our main reason for not using the provent. Plus our vehicles are using silicon lined CAC hoses to the oil will not bleed through. I little oil going through the engine is normal and not a concern...with good hoses.
Bardwell02,

You must have a KJ that was built on a Tuesday or Wednesday, it sounds very solid. The ECO tune is the best path for your situation as it has a torque limitation while the TC is in lock-up to minimize the potential for shudder and lengthen the life of the TC. When unlocked, the trans will have a substantial torque increase over stock throughout the rpm range at full go pedal. The tune is transparent to a dealer scanner, we do not change the part number. The dealer may check for supercedence for the ECU part number, so we highly recommend you have the dealer complete all TSB engine controller flash updates prior to purchasing a tune. Plus the TSB firmware updates add additional software features that benefit the application (with the proper aftermarket tune of course!!).

As for the TC, we have not personally tested the Suncoast, we tend to look for the least expensive option to solve any problem. The "shudder issue" is solved with the Euro spec mopar TC and it should be less than $300...lately Chrysler seems to be adding mark-up to the TC as the price started around $200 last September. It is still a good deal. The shudder is caused when the springs in the lock-up clutch bottom out and cause the secondary reaction of clutch slip-stick, which translates into the high frequency vibration in the vehicle. The new euro converter increases the capacity about 100 ft*lb and this is enough to prevent the springs from going solid.

We have several customers with the Suncoast converter, mainly running the HOT tune. You might get some good feedback from them if you start a new topic about it.

Do you want the TC to grenade before the waranty or at least be able to demonstrate shudder with the trans?
Great data! The warmer intake air can become significant especially with the cold temps you experience everyday. Almost 28 mpg in the winter is very good, our vehicles do not fair as well due to mainly city driving with several 2 hour soaks throughout the day. Removing the snorkel is an easy way to gain back some fuel economy during the winter.
When you are coming to a stop the trans should be unlocked so the springs are not engaged, unless the trans is staying in lock-up for some reason. When you are braking and slowing down from 20 to 0, is the engine rpm always at idle or at what speed does it reach idle? If the trans pump is losing prime it will feel as if the vehicle is not in gear and then it may come back once the pump is working again. We are not experts in the trans, but with your symptoms a TC pump might be worthwhile. There is also a check valve the could be failing. Keep us posted.
It could be that your torque converter is starting to go. The transmission is going into "limp-in" mode and staying in 3rd unlock, this makes it difficult to accelerate. After the shutdown the controller will reset and then everything works normal...for a while. There could also be a loose wiring connection that is making the trans flake out, but this is rare.
With the tune and even without, the stock CCV routing should not effect the MAF or the intercooler efficiency much. We drained our intercooler after 70-80k and only got a couple ounces out. The oil tends to settle on the bottom over time and will not impede the heat transfer of the intercooler. The MAF is upstream of the CCV inlet and is only exposed to oil in extremely minute quantities that the element is designed to cope with.

As for oil and the CAC hoses, the silocon lining is a must for longevity.
Sorry for the late response...hopefully the vehicle is fixed already. The brakes on the KJ are biased towards the front. The high temps do indicate sticky caliper pins or some sort of residual pressure in the brake lines. Definitely check the front brakes, does the brake pedal always feel the same or does the first press of the pedal sometimes feel mushy? You may need to bleed the front brakes as well. Let us know how it worked out for you. Thanks
Does anyone have additional tank and EVIC fuel economy numbers? We would like to verify the accuracy of the EVIC tune that was implemented late October. We are hoping the trends point to having the EVIC a little closer to reality. Thanks for the feedback.
The no limit Eco Tune is available upon request as a free option. We would just like to record the vehicle's torque converter information and discuss after-market TC options as a long term solution. This option is the most fuel efficient tune available for the KJ in the NA market and the torque is plenty sufficient for towing in grade situations. It also maintains a virtually smoke free exhaust in all conditions. Just ask for the "Full torque ECO tune"!
The resistance is fair and will reduce somewhat after a few rotations of the fan. There is an internal weep hole inside the viscous coupling for fluid to drain out when the fan clutch is not engaged. After the fluid drains, the resistance to move the fan drops significantly. Cold fluid during the winter increases the resistance and the pump out time. Viscous couplings are a bit old tech. If the engine is shut off with the weep hole on the bottom the fluid drains out faster and if it is on top it tends to hold the fluid and stay partially engaged for a little longer after the engine is started. Some deisgns have more than one weep hole, but this one (we believe) does not.

A two piece fan shrould designed for service access...that might cut into corporate profits if the vehicle were easy to work on. Ha Ha
 
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