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Messages posted by: GreenDieselEngineering
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Sorry for the late response...hopefully the vehicle is fixed already. The brakes on the KJ are biased towards the front. The high temps do indicate sticky caliper pins or some sort of residual pressure in the brake lines. Definitely check the front brakes, does the brake pedal always feel the same or does the first press of the pedal sometimes feel mushy? You may need to bleed the front brakes as well. Let us know how it worked out for you. Thanks
Does anyone have additional tank and EVIC fuel economy numbers? We would like to verify the accuracy of the EVIC tune that was implemented late October. We are hoping the trends point to having the EVIC a little closer to reality. Thanks for the feedback.
The no limit Eco Tune is available upon request as a free option. We would just like to record the vehicle's torque converter information and discuss after-market TC options as a long term solution. This option is the most fuel efficient tune available for the KJ in the NA market and the torque is plenty sufficient for towing in grade situations. It also maintains a virtually smoke free exhaust in all conditions. Just ask for the "Full torque ECO tune"!
The resistance is fair and will reduce somewhat after a few rotations of the fan. There is an internal weep hole inside the viscous coupling for fluid to drain out when the fan clutch is not engaged. After the fluid drains, the resistance to move the fan drops significantly. Cold fluid during the winter increases the resistance and the pump out time. Viscous couplings are a bit old tech. If the engine is shut off with the weep hole on the bottom the fluid drains out faster and if it is on top it tends to hold the fluid and stay partially engaged for a little longer after the engine is started. Some deisgns have more than one weep hole, but this one (we believe) does not.

A two piece fan shrould designed for service access...that might cut into corporate profits if the vehicle were easy to work on. Ha Ha
The sensor is designed to read temps down to -40 F. The tune continually adjusts the timing advance based on temp and reaches full correction at -15 F. Antoher way to boost intake manifold air temps in the winter is to remove the snorkel attached to the airbox. In this manner the engine will pull warmer air from inside the engine compartment. We do not have fuel economy data for this change, but it is directionally correct. During the summer months the snorkel helps efficiency by reducing intake air temps and is recommended in warmer climates.
We just checked our fuel economy with the mechanical fan removed. It increased the mpg by 0.5. Not a lot, but we were strictly doing city cycles and with all the snow lately it is hard to get an apples to apples comparison. The plan is to leave it off through spring and summer until we notice any potential for increasing coolant temps beyond the normal range. For sure no towing with this vehicle.
flman,

Thanks for the insight on the blower motor resistor. We installed a new one today ($24) and it fixed the problem. One more annoyance we do not have to deal with.
Although the Garmin data is cool, we do not need that much detail. We are looking for a few customers that have repetitive drive cycles that tend to be more city based. The city fuel economy is still the weak point on this application and we are looking for ways to improve this. Thanks!
There is no reason to wait for the updates, the tunes will remain the same. The other options we are working on pertain to other components on the vehicle. Chrysler recently raised the price of the new torque converter due to the high demand for the part...go figure.
We would like to unquire from current tune customers what their drive cycle mix is. We are looking for the % city driving verses the % highway driving and average speed in the city and highway portions. Once we have a good idea what the mix is, we would like to work out some testing with a few customers to validate a couple options we are working on to further improve the fuel economy. Your feedback will help us to determine who would benefit most from the improvements we are working on.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

GDE
The tabs on the shroud did rub against the radiator hose and the CAC hose. We just bent the hoses out of the way as much as possible. The spanner wrench is a very good idea! It will be much easier the second time around.
Applying heat on bolt should not cause an issue. You have a very stubborn vehicle!
Funny...

Try wedging a screwdriver into one of the holes on the fan hub to get it to bind a bit. This might give you enough leverage to free the fan when hitting the crescent wrench.
We never removed the shroud, just lifted it a few inches and then put back in its original position. More parts might need to be removed to get the entire shroud out of the vehicle.
We will check that out this morning, is there an easy way to test if it is failed?
 
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