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Messages posted by: GreenDieselEngineering
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The job is not too bad with the proper tools, it took about 15 minutes. First, remove the plastic engine cover. Use a large crescent wrench (22-24") for the fan hex head and orient it upright in line with the engine lift bracket. Hit the wrench in the counter clockwise direction with a small sledge. This is where the project time can increase greatly if the fan is frozen to the hub. It may help to spray with penetrating oil and let it sit a while. Once loose, spin the fan until it falls off the hub. It will rest in the shroud, now the shroud must be raised about 4-6 inches for the fan to be removed. There are two 10mm bolts that hold the fan shroud in place located one on each side a few inches down, remove these. Then loosen the A/C line and coolant line from the top of shroud and wrap around the top of engine. The shrould may be clipped to the top of the radiator and pryed up and out. NOTE the shroud hooks in at the bottom on each side into a retention slot when re-installing. Pull up the shroud enough to remove the fan. Tape the exposed threads on the fan support hub with electrical tape or duct tape. Then put everything back together. We broke the clips to the AC lines and drilled a second hole where the connectors are to use a zip tie to hold the line in place.

It is hard to tell if it is any warmer as a few days ago the first three control positions for fan speed died. All we have is high speed which is just too much. Need to order a new control unit tomorrow after checking the fuses...
Today we removed the mechanical fan from our 2006 KJ CRD for the remainder of the winter (no towing with this vehicle for the next 3 months). The engine coolant temp is running 1-2 F higher than before on the highway and 3-5 F higher in city traffic. The viscous fan parasitic losses may amount to a 1-1.5 mpg gain, this will be validated during the next couple of weeks. We also noticed that the air temps after the intercooler are about 10 F higher, this is good news. We are not worried about overheating in the winter if the vehicle is not going to be used for trailer towing. The electric fan will turn on if the coolant temps ever reach 203 F, which is highly unlikely during the cooler months. Typically the coolant temps hover right around the thermostat opening temp of 176 F with the mechanical fan off.
Just curious on your thoughts about something. I am using an Elephant hose mod. Considering how much blow-by occurs with this engine is there an advantage to having those oil vapors going back into the intake in terms of power/economy/longevity/warm up? I'm thinking the amount of vapor is trivially small but just thought I'd ask . . .



With the small amount of oil going through the system it will not have a significant effect on power/economy/longevity or warmup. We drained our CAC at 70,000miles and were only able to get a couple ounces out, most of it stays airborne and goes through the engine. Eliminating the soot is the best way to prevent gunk build-up and a set of Samcos with silicon lining to stop oil bleed through of the hoses.
On step 17 you mention cutting 3 inches from of the flex joint and then the next sentence you say to sand the last 4 inches of the cut pipe for a clean welding surface. Wouldn't you only have ~3 inches of surface to sand? Or are you supposed to cut 4 inches from the flex joint?

That is a typo with the four inches, we will update the instructions to fix that. Thanks for catching it. 3 inches is the correct number, but it is always a good idea to test fit the downpipe prior to cutting due to vehicle variation in the exhaust system (+/- 1/2 inch).

On step 22 & 28 regarding the turbo oil drain and the rubber block fitting: I've heard some people say its easier to insert the drain back into the block if you remove the rubber fitting first, attach to the drain and re-insert the two together. Since I've never done this, do you have any comments on which method is easier/better?

We will add in a comment to spray some WD-40 or similar on the portion of the oil drain pipe that slides into the rubber fitting. This makes it very easy to install.

On step 29 it doesn't sound like using a torque wrench is going to be practical. How forgiving is getting the torque exactly 25 ft-lbs?

Using a good feel with suffice for the torque in hard to reach bolts. Torque a bolt by hand to a guestimated 25 ft-lb using the tool that will be used for the job, then check with a torque wrench to see how close you are. This test can be accomplished outside the vehicle with vise, bolt and nut.

On step 33 and the welding process: Could an exhaust pipe clamp be used instead of the welding? It seems the interface is horizontal with lots of material overlap so the possibility of the union falling out would be minimal . . .

The slip fit is fairly tight and you could use a clamp if so desired. We did this at first, but there was some exhaust gas leakage around the clamp. Due to the high strength of the stainless steel exhaust, it is very difficult for a clamp to provide enough pressure for a tight seal.


Thanks for the feedback.
WXman,

For the first tank that is acceptable. Need to keep in mind you purchased the "HOT" tune and you mentioned that the TC shudders very bad. When the TC shudders, you are not driving conservatively, so the fuel economy with suffer even though you are driving "conservatively". The fuel economy should improve over the next couple of tanks as you adjust to the tune. Our BFG all-terrain tires cost us 3 mpg, but the improvement in grip seems worth it. We adjusted the EVIC calculation with the tune to bring it a little closer to reality, there are just too many contributers to fuel economy that the EVIC will never be very good considering in the software it can only be adjusted with a 2-point linearization.

"Sooooooooo . . . since I’m new to the Liberty CRD in winters, and new to this automatic transmission (mainly driven manuals where I get to choose what gear I’m in), is the cold weather mpg hit an artifact of the engine, transmission or tune? Or is it something else all together?"





The cold weather does have a significant effect on fuel economy and is a combination of several parameters. Transmission has a warm-up cycle based on fliud temp and it usually lasts between 2-10 minutes depending on load/drive cycle. During this time it tends to hold a lower gear to increase rpm and warm up the trans fluid faster, at a certain temp the shift strategy reverts to normal mode. This also holds true for the engine warm-up, uses more fuel to increase heat output, two pilot injection events and longer combustion heat release aid in transferring more heat to the head and block. The warm-up cycle is off when coolant temps reach the 140's.

The short trips with intervals of 3+ hours will have a negative impact on fuel economy. The severity increases with the length of soak, lower ambient temps, snow, 4x4, etc.

Low coolant temps (160-176 F) in the winter are not directionally good and a 195 F thermostat would provide significant benefit. Increased oil temps and liner temps will help make the combustion more efficient and further reduce HC emissions, all leading to better fuel economy.

The CRD is best suited for longer periods of highway driving and this becomes more evident during the winter months. City driving has no TC lock-up in the trans and the repeated warm-ups are just not helping. Blocking part of the radiator fresh air flow should help somewhat, but we have not tested it to validate the impact.

The confidence behind the wheel during snowy winter driving is still the primary motivator for the KJ, especially the ESP on the 2006 models. We tend to get to throttle happy and the ESP keeps everything in line. Our 2005 with turbo kit is for the fun factor...however, without snow tires it is mainly used on clear roads.

Thanks for the feedback.
GDE

The turbo wiring changes will not interfere with wiring changes for the SEGR and they will not impact each other in any way. The SEGR ties into the MAF and EGR circuits based on our understanding. Only two wires need to be soldered to power the turbo and these tie into the EVM (electronic vacuum modulator) that powers the turbo in the stock configuration.
After running a couple tankfuls you will have a better idea of the real fuel economy, there is some variability in the gauge so don't worry too much about it yet. Any chance you are having some dragging brakes? We lost 3mpg due to the front brake calipers binding on the support pin.

As for the torque, it is not a huge step up as the engine is still limited by the turbocharger, but it is much better than stock and provides a more linear, connected to the ground feeling. Keep us posted when you refill and come up with some hard numbers. Thanks.
WXman,

Is the CEL off? Any changes in starting the engine stock vs. tune? Were you using the additives pre-tune? Are the mileage figures hand calculated? and not EVIC as it has some accuracy issues on most KJs. Have you noticed an improvement in city driving, launching and passing? Hopefully the mpgs will increase for you, the extreme cold will rob a few %, but nowhere near where you are running. What driving mix is typical for your KJ, city/highway?

Thanks for the feedback.
The problem is the housing was never designed to be serviceable. It is made of die cast aluminum with the thermostat sandwiched between the top and bottom housing. The lower housing is pressed into the lip of the upper housing. This must be pryed apart to remove the thermostat and usually leads into cracking the housing or something so it will not reseal properly. 3 bolts and a gasket would be a dream for the CRD.
That is a nice alternative! The two t-stats inline will add some restriction, which will lead to a slightly higher head pressure and less flow to the radiator. The bypass, heater core, EGR cooling, oil cooling may see a significant increase in flow. The water pump should be fine, just a little more torque load on the engine, which may/not be noticeable in mpg. This would not be good if the CRD will be pulling a trailer up Davis Dam on a 100 F day, the system is already at capacity and the loss of flow to the radiator would cause a significant decrease in vehicle performance. All other conditions should be fine. Have you priced a replacement OEM thermostat, just for comparison?
Here is the link with the timing belt replacement procedure.

GDE Timing Belt Replacement Process v3
The following link will take you to a pdf file that details the turbo installation including step-by-step instructions and pictures.

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/view.php?id=1726099&da=y

The file is almost 2 meg and takes a little bit to download. This is a good review to know the workload and to determine if you feel comfortable completing the job or sending it out to a local mechanic.

GDE

The turbo kit can always be reverted back to the stock configuration and GDE will reflash the ECU with the proper tune if a need should ever arise. There are three changes that would require retrofit:

1. Weld the original exhaust downpipe back to the exhaust system.
2. Cut and solder the two wires that connect to the turbo EVM connector.
3. Weld the turbo heat shield back together.

The welding is very straight forward. The new exhaust downpipe has a slip joint that will slide over the exhaust pipe under the vehicle. This needs to be welded at the joint all the way around 360 degrees. One can use a MIG, TIG or stick welder to accomplish the job, it just depends on how pretty you want the weld to look. We just welded a couple inches at a time and then rotated the pipe to the next section. In total there is about 8 inches of weld and the metal thickness is about a 1/16 inch so it will be hard to burn through.
After making your provent, how much time did you give the engine to clean itself out? There always seems to be some residual that never disappears. Be careful with CCV mods if in winter climates. Having a longer breather hose increases the chance that water vapor will freeze in the hose and prevent the engine from properly breathing. If this happens you risk blowing oil out the front and rear main seals.
 
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