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Messages posted by: GreenDieselEngineering
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We installed the upgraded Mopar TC on our 2006 (running the HOT tune) and on our 2005 (running the turbo kit). We did not install any other upgrades when the TC was swapped, i.e. no new pump and no Transgo shift kit. We did put new trans fluid filters in with the torque converters. Both of our vehicles are running with un-neutered transmission calibrations, this also puts the highest stress on the converter since there is more "lock-up" at lower vehicle speeds and lower corresponding engine rpm. Some customers running the tune are using the Transgo shift kit and seem to like it, we cannot give a recommendation as we have not tested one yet.

We have not noticed a big change in exhaust temps using the new turbo and downpipe from that of the base ECO tune. The ECO tune dropped the exhaust temps dramatically, so we are expecting the turbo kit to be in the same ballpark.

By the way, the turbo is actually smaller in dimensions than the stock unit. The compressor is exactly the same as stock, however the turbine is smaller than the stock turbine. The smaller turbine has improved flow characteristics, the vanes are next generation with a more pronounced airfoil design and the turbine assembly can spin almost 40,000 rpm faster than the stock unit. The speed makes the difference as we are able to flow almost 25% more air at the higher rpm ranges. More air allows more fuel and more power at the top end without causing high levels of smoke out the tailpipe.
Yes, we will have step-by-step directions with pictures for the turbo installation. It is not a difficult job and you do not even need to drain the coolant. The new exhaust downpipe has a slip fitting to slide right over the stock exhaust pipe, just prior to the flex coupling. The slip joint should be welded to ensure no exhaust leaks. We used a standard exhaust u-bolt clamp prior to welding and noticed some exhaust leakage.

We did not do anything to the intake during the turbo upgrade. We have been running the tunes for several thousand miles now and the intake seems to be cleaning itself over time. We still have the CCV piped into the air inlet, so the blow-by oil mist is keeping the soot in the manifold loose and it just seems to be eroding away. The MAP is staying fairly clean now since no new soot is coming into the manifold.
Apart from a massive increase in performance, the turbo kit also has advantages in launch feeling, almost zero turbo lag and if driving in steady-state conditions it will provide a 2-4% increase in fuel economy. The fuel economy increase is due to having a lower inertia rotating assembly inside the turbo and slightly less exhaust restriction for a given boost pressure. Real life fuel economy is about the same as the ECO tune because it is just too much fun passing everyone like they were standing still!
No need to request it. The changes to the viscous heater are already built into the tune.
Yes that is correct. We wil be updating the website in the next few days to post the availability of the turbo kit.
Here are the revised settings for the viscous heater:

Air temp shut off threshold stock = 54 F, new setting is 44 F
Coolant temp shut off threshold stock = 162 F, new setting is 131 F

If either condition is met the viscous heater will not be turn on. There is a 10 F hysteresis for turning the VH back on. With these settings you would only have the heater on for maybe 2 months out of the year and then only for the first 2-3 minutes after a cold start. After the engine is warm it would take several hours to cool down enough in order to meet the on conditions again. These settings have been released with the tune since mid October.

The largest contributer was reducing the coolant temp by 30 F, this prevents the VH from running during the winter months during light load city driving. The engine can run between 140-165 F in the cold winter months. We did not notice much difference in cabin heat, still comfortable inside.
You do not have to rewire the SEGR back to stock, a few other customers are running SEGR and the tune without any CEL and it will not effect the performance or fuel economy either way. Yes we are taking deposits, however right now it has to be a check since our paypal does not have a link setup yet. The deposit for a turbo kit is $300.

Have you ever experienced shudder with the Suncoast torque converter?
Below 80% throttle the ECO tune and HOT tune have the same engine efficiency for a given rpm and load. If one drives in cruise control both tunes would give the same fuel economy. The HOT tune tends to have slightly less fuel economy in real life for two reasons. First, it is sometimes too tempting to hammer down the accelerator and the HOT tune flows about 10-15% more fuel at full throttle. Second, the throttle map is slightly more aggressive than the ECO tune so it tends to launch harder from a stop, this also does not do any favors to the fuel gauge. As the fun factor gage increases the fuel gauge drops!!
The bridge area between the valves has the smallest cross section of aluminum. The pressure causes cyclic stresses on the aluminum, the heat is generally slow to respond due to the mass of the head. Coatings are used on the pistons of some performance diesels as a method of heat control and extending piston life.
Based on the machining costs, the price for the first 10 kits will be around $2800. This would include the tune and all hardware to complete the job. It is imperative the CRD is equipped with an aftermarket torque converter. We have tested the turbo kit with the new Mopar TC and it performs wonderfully!
We have several KJ timing belts on hand if anyone needs one. The price is $140 shipped. These are original OEM parts. We will also rent out the timing tools for people looking to complete this job at home. Just call or e-mail us for more details.
There is not a weak point in the block. The weakest link is the bridge area between the ports on the aluminum cylinder head. With the hot tune we measure about 170 bar peak firing pressure at peak torque between 2000 and 2400 rpm at WOT. At peak power (3800 rpm) the pressure is down to about 130 bar. The engine just does not breathe enough at high rpms to increase the system pressure...it will just make more smoke at a certain point and not useable power.

The durability testing on this engine in Europe included several tests where the powertrain was ran for 2000+ hours on a WOT cycle that includes idle time between runs. Each cycle was about 1-2 minutes. This puts the maximum stress on the cylinder head from a cyclic fatigue failure point of view. The test has a very high load factor compared to a real life automotive application. VM does a good job of flogging their engines to the limit to find the weak links.

The on road equivalent of this test would be running 0-90 mph back down to 0 and repeat for the life of the vehicle. Definitely much more aggressive than real life. The constant load of cruising down the highway is much less stressful on the engine even if pulling a trailer.
There are no defined limits for horsepower or torque, it is a function of cylinder pressure during combustion. 160 bar is no problem for this engine and it can handle up to 180 bar for shorter periods of time. The amount of torque produced at a given cylinder pressure depends on how long the combustion event lasts. If the burn lasts for 45 crank angle degrees verses 30 degrees the effective torque may be more. Many different parameters will play into this, but the area under the curve when measuring the cylinder pressure is vital to determine torque. Sorry for the engineering speak. The other limit is turbo speed, 180000 rpm is good all day and the bearings can handle up to 200000 rpm for shorter durations.

With a cast iron cylinder head and studs the engine would be able to achieve upwards of 230 bar and the bottom end should still be fine...unless someone designs a cast head we will never see those numbers.

In the end, you do not want to get too crazy with a 4-cylinder engine as the torsionals get too high and will wreak havoc to the transmission, a 6-cylinder is a much better option for overall driveline life.
We have received the first ten kits and will be sending parts out for machining work. Due to the holiday season we are not expecting to have the completed kits ready for sale until mid to late January. Having the parts in hand is a big step in the right direction and we are working to expedite this as soon as feasible. Thanks for the patience.
A couple days ago we released a slight change to the EVIC calibration. The slope was reduced by about 8%. The effects vary based on driving condition. Here are the limited results we have thus far. In highway cruising the EVIC was reading about 1.5mpg high and in city driving it was reading about 1.0 mpg low, so the end result with mixed driving should be more accurate than stock.

The input for the calculation is a non dimensional fuel flow rate, then corrected with slope factor and finally divided vehicle speed. The flow flow rate is based on the injector flow maps from the factory test bench, these are not accurate at low fuel flow rates, so this messes up the overall accuracy. If the odometer is not reading the same as GPS, the accuracy will also suffer. Even with all this, we think the cal change is directionally correct for having the EVIC reflect reality and not be so biased to the high side.
 
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