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Messages posted by: TDIwyse
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I'm fairly confident that the previous owner of this liberty lived by the sea, commuted to work through the sea, and then washed the vehicle with sea water upon returning home at night.

I've bent up a tire iron the first time I rotated tires due to lug nuts being frozen, ripped the heads off of two of the skid plate bolts and had to drill out the bolts so I could change the front diff fluid, and had to re-tap the frame holes to bolt the tow hitch I added into place. Grrrrrrr.

So I bought a longer tool, have a metal pipe extension on it as well so it's now 32 inches long, using a screw driver to keep the bolt from free spinning and have been whacking away for quite some time over the last several nights while continuously soaking with anti seize. No dice.

So my question is: Can I heat that bolt without damaging the fan coupling or anything else in that area? Was thinking propane torch or what's worked for me in the past on really stubborn stuff is to use my stick welder and just weld on the bolt to apply intense localized heat (and knock off the material with a hammer afterwards). That's worked for times when the propane wasn't hot enough.
GreenDieselEngineering wrote:Use a large crescent wrench (22-24") for the fan hex head and orient it upright in line with the engine lift bracket. Hit the wrench in the counter clockwise direction with a small sledge. This is where the project time can increase greatly if the fan is frozen to the hub.


Your tool is longer than mine.

Mine seems to be frozen to the hub. Tried some anti seize but no help yet. Any suggestions on how to keep things from turning when I whack it?
Cool. Well, I guess it should be "Warm". How hard is it to remove the fan?

Looking back at mileage logs for other vehicles I’ve commuted with shows a similar % drop in mpg’s (once I replaced the ATR tires) compared to summer. However the magnitude of this drop seems larger than I can account for in terms of fuel BTU’s and engine/transmission warm-up times. But it appears now that there’s an important variable I wasn’t considering before: Prevailing wind directions.

http://www.icaen.uiowa.edu/~ie_155/Lecture/Wind_as_fuel.pdf

I live northwest of my job. In the winter months the wind in Iowa is on average from the Northwest and its average speed is the highest in the months of Dec, Jan and Feb. I drive to work around 6-6:30am when wind speeds are at their lowest average speed for a given day. My return drive home is in the afternoon when the wind speeds are their highest average speed for a given day. These months are also the coldest so the air density is at its highest so will have a bigger impact on wind drag than in the summer. Sooooooo, my morning commute is typically with the wind but the wind is typically weak. My return trip is typically into the wind when it’s typically at its strongest. Not the best combination for maximizing fuel economy.
I've been reading through the instructions and have a few questions.

On step 17 you mention cutting 3 inches from of the flex joint and then the next sentence you say to sand the last 4 inches of the cut pipe for a clean welding surface. Wouldn't you only have ~3 inches of surface to sand? Or are you supposed to cut 4 inches from the flex joint?

On step 22 & 28 regarding the turbo oil drain and the rubber block fitting: I've heard some people say its easier to insert the drain back into the block if you remove the rubber fitting first, attach to the drain and re-insert the two together. Since I've never done this, do you have any comments on which method is easier/better?

On step 29 it doesn't sound like using a torque wrench is going to be practical. How forgiving is getting the torque exactly 25 ft-lbs?

On step 33 and the welding process: Could an exhaust pipe clamp be used instead of the welding? It seems the interface is horizontal with lots of material overlap so the possibility of the union falling out would be minimal . . .

All in all this seems like a great kit you guys have engineered. I'm looking forward to hearing some feedback on this kit.
Dave wrote:I have been considering an elephant hose because I don't want all the snot (that my previous homemade crankcase vent collected) in my CAC. Do you get a mess on your garage floor?


The only time I noticed some drips was this Fall after towing my trailer. Otherwise it doesn't seem to be a noticeable amount. Although I don't keep my garage floors pristine so it might just blend in with the other stains, dirt, dust, etc. . .
I see a much better correlation from EVIC to hand calculated with your newest adjustment that came in my recent Hot Tune upgrade as compared to the older version of the Eco tune. Nice job.

Interestingly it seems the colder it gets the higher % optimistic the EVIC becomes as compared to hand calculated. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else sees that correlation or if it's just me.

Just curious on your thoughts about something. I am using an Elephant hose mod. Considering how much blow-by occurs with this engine is there an advantage to having those oil vapors going back into the intake in terms of power/economy/longevity/warm up? I'm thinking the amount of vapor is trivially small but just thought I'd ask . . .

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:
The cold weather does have a significant effect on fuel economy and is a combination of several parameters. Transmission has a warm-up cycle based on fliud temp and it usually lasts between 2-10 minutes depending on load/drive cycle. During this time it tends to hold a lower gear to increase rpm and warm up the trans fluid faster, at a certain temp the shift strategy reverts to normal mode. This also holds true for the engine warm-up, uses more fuel to increase heat output, two pilot injection events and longer combustion heat release aid in transferring more heat to the head and block. The warm-up cycle is off when coolant temps reach the 140's.

The short trips with intervals of 3+ hours will have a negative impact on fuel economy. The severity increases with the length of soak, lower ambient temps, snow, 4x4, etc.

Low coolant temps (160-176 F) in the winter are not directionally good and a 195 F thermostat would provide significant benefit. Increased oil temps and liner temps will help make the combustion more efficient and further reduce HC emissions, all leading to better fuel economy.

The CRD is best suited for longer periods of highway driving and this becomes more evident during the winter months. City driving has no TC lock-up in the trans and the repeated warm-ups are just not helping. Blocking part of the radiator fresh air flow should help somewhat, but we have not tested it to validate the impact.

The confidence behind the wheel during snowy winter driving is still the primary motivator for the KJ, especially the ESP on the 2006 models. We tend to get to throttle happy and the ESP keeps everything in line. Our 2005 with turbo kit is for the fun factor...however, without snow tires it is mainly used on clear roads.

Thanks for the feedback.
GDE



Thanks. If it's normal then I'm fine with that. Just didn't know what normal was for this vehicle.
flman wrote:Make sure the card board is not blocking air flow to the CAC?


It's three sections of black painted (so you can't see it's there unless you look real close) cardboard that slip in behind the grill when the hood is opened. They do block most of the CAC. The bottom air inlet under the bumper is still all open. Don't all the winter covers block most of the CAC on diesel trucks? My Ram and YJ Cummins also get the black cardboard in the winters unless they're towing. The TDI has never been cardboarded.

This question is good timing as I was about to re-address this issue since I’ve been keeping track of many tanks and multiple changing variables.

Variable 1 (and 2): Tires (and brakes).
Back in Oct I switched from the stock tires to Cooper Discoverer ATR 215/85R16 Load E tires and had a huge hit in mpg’s. Like 20-30% huge. Part of the issue was my brakes started dragging immediately after this switch and actually warped a rotor in the first few days following the switch. Tore apart the calipers, re-greased, bled brake lines, etc. which helped but still had a big loss in mpg’s of about a 10-15%. That was before temps got really cold.

Recently did an experiment and switched to General Grabber HTS tires (235/75R16) partially due to Consumer Reports (had rolling resistance data -- http://access.gale.com/widgets/cr/pdfs/suvtires.pdf) and TireRack ratings and got back close to 8-10% of mpg’s compared to the ATR’s for similar winter driving conditions (sold the ATR’s on Craigs List). However I still have what I consider to be a BIG hit in mpg’s when the temps fall below ~20 F.

Variable 3: Temps.
Looking at my mileage logs and trying to isolate for temp variability it looks like below ~15-20F I see a dramatic drop off in mpgs. At least a 15% drop compared to above 20F. I’m not sure if this is due to the automatic transmission or something with the engine properties or the tune?

I have a ~28 ml round trip (14 ml one way mostly 55 mph county roads) and on the mornings (after sitting overnight in an attached garage, being plugged in) it takes about 2 mls before the TC will lock up on cold mornings. After work sitting all day it takes about 3-4 mls to lockup the TC for the drive home. The colder the day the longer it takes to lockup. However, even when the TC locks the mpg displayed by the EVIC is dramatically lower on sub 20F days. I have cardboard covering most of the radiator to help warm up the engine and keep it warm. I’ve seen as low as 21.7 mpg hand calculated on tanks where the ambient air temps are averaging below 10F. But on tanks with temps mainly between 20-40F I get 26-27 mpg. Last fall (before the ATR tires) on the tune when temps were above 60F I was getting 28-30 mpg for back and forth to work.
I’ve played with enabling and disabling the viscous heater. Measured data shows better mpg’s on average for similar cold conditions with disabling the viscous heater (pulling the relay). The mpg hit for the time its running is really large and it only takes about 1 ml longer of my drive to get the coolant up to temp without it.

Sooooooooo . . . since I’m new to the Liberty CRD in winters, and new to this automatic transmission (mainly driven manuals where I get to choose what gear I’m in), is the cold weather mpg hit an artifact of the engine, transmission or tune? Or is it something else all together?

Confused in Iowa . . .
Got a couple questions.

Is there anything that is done with the installation of this kit that would prevent going back to the original turbo config?

Would you describe a little more about the welding that is required?

Thanks.
Add me to the list of people whose shudder problem was solved with new style converter.
You guys are killing me

Seriously, great job. Now that my new torque converter solved the shuddering issue with your Hot Tune . . .

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:We were able to get the price down to our target of $2500 and current tune customers will have an additional $300 discount for chosing the upgrade.
Thanks for the tip on relocating things to avoid rubbing on the turbo side. Did you have any issues with the other end rubbing on anything?

Also, did you reuse the existing clamps or purchase new clamps with the Samcos?

Tracked things down. After about 10 mins some additional modules shut themselves off. At this point the current dropped to about 140mA. This extra current was coming from the Mopar wiring harness I installed (shortly after purchase) to setup the ability to use an e-brake controller for towing a trailer (my liberty didn't come with the EVIC which required me to buy 2 mopar wiring harnesses to enable this ability). The wiring harness in the rear never stopped drawing current. I could drop the battery drain current to ~5 mA if I removed the fuse in the interior fuse box #3 which powers the cigarett lighter. One of the mopar harnesses plugs into this attachment which feeds power to the back harness. I put a switch inline with this connector which enables me to disconnect this path when I don't need the trailer brake enabled. Now the liberty only draws ~5mA after ~10 mins of shut down. One interesting point, anytime I open the door to the jeep the battery draw jumps to >4 amps for several minutes until certain electronic sections time out . . . so I'm not going to open my doors unless its really, really necessary . . . especially in the winter. I did get a new battery Friday. Much, much improved start times resulted from this purchase.
 
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