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Messages posted by: flman
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WXman wrote:So where exactly are you guys buying this additive? Any guesses on long term negative effects it could possibly have?


I got it at Carquest, or you can buy it online? Try this link http://www.lubegard.com/WhereToBuy.aspx
WXman wrote:My MPG figures have been very low lately. I'm lucky to get 20 MPG. This is a 50/50 mix of city/highway and driving very conservatively. In fact, this current tank looks like it'll work out to around 18 MPG. That's pretty horrible for a vehicle like this. I'm wondering what affect using anti-gel additives has on fuel economy. Have you guys done any testing on this? The other thing that could be hurting me is that the temp. has been staying below freezing quite a bit lately. It's been a cold Winter here relative to average.


Maybe you should try plugging in the block heater? Lucky for me, the place I bought has a 2 car garage for the Jeeps, and a large shop for my truck. None of the spaces are heated full time, but it is alot better then out doors.

PS, Kind of funny I fell in love with the place before I even saw the inside of the house, it was going to be my first place with two bays, a shop with a 10' bay, and a large bungalow I converted to a shed to boot.
GreenDieselEngineering wrote:The problem is the housing was never designed to be serviceable. It is made of die cast aluminum with the thermostat sandwiched between the top and bottom housing. The lower housing is pressed into the lip of the upper housing. This must be pryed apart to remove the thermostat and usually leads into cracking the housing or something so it will not reseal properly. 3 bolts and a gasket would be a dream for the CRD.


I have never seen the CRD tstat assy. There is no way to break the tstat out of there with out breaking the housing I assume? Another thought, if you keep the in-line tstat close to the engine with a metal sleeve over the hose, maybe that would prevent pressure swelling?
GDE, why couldn't you just remove the old tstat, from the housing, if it can be done with out damage? The only thing, I don't like about the in-line tstat, is the back pressure against the hose between the engine and the in-line housing. It looks like it would be nice to put any tstat you want on the Jeep though.
Today my Eco Tuned Jeep Shuddered like hell, I was doing between 55 and 65 going through a mountainous region. Every time I would slightly press the accelerator while cruising uphill, I would get a light shudder. The Hot tuned Jeep would get a harsh shudder until I put in the additive. So Eco Jeep got a tube of the additive today as well.
I don't use it on either one of my Jeeps, as long as you are not mixing soot and oil it will be OK. If you are using the EGR you need the provent/EHM so the oil does not cake up the manifold. That little bit of oil going through the air charge system is not going to hurt a thing, in theory, the oil should dissolve the soot eventually.
Lost member "flman" See the Sig.........
Darby mine runs away with out the SEGR. Did you ever try the SEGR bypass with the Hot Tune? I bought a SEGR and while it was be shipped I heard of the GDE, so I sold it, and never had the SEGR.
Just one 2 oz tube is all it took, I will stick with the Hot tune, there is a major difference between the Hot and Eco.

I was considering down flashing the Hot tuned Jeep to Eco because I was getting shudder. You wont even get this until you drive normal, no lock-up when you are putting petal to the metal. Any ways I saw a mention of this stuff on LOST. So I gave it a try, results are instant. I got on the NYS Thruway, and tried to drive in the ranges where I would get shudder, I could not produce it. So I went to a local highway, where I was able to previosly get shudder, still could not produce shudder. Looks like we may have a poor man's fix for shudder, just have to see if the rest of the internals can handle the torque? It only cost $7 to $9 per tube.

More info here http://www.lubegard.com/SearchByCategory.aspx?CategoryCode=230&title=Dr.+Tranny+Instant+Shudder+Fixx#
GreenDieselEngineering wrote:Good question. It appears to be more pronounced with the hot tune. The rate of decreasing the fuel when releasing the pedal is the same for both tunes, but the hot tune allows 15-20 % more fuel in high load driving. So with the hot tune the decrease to zero fueling takes slightly longer and there is a noticeable difference.

We have spent the last few days working on optimizing the fueling ramping rates based on throttle input. The results are very promising as we have still been able to keep the "clunk" down to a minimum and the vehicle does not feel like there is any surging or positive torque when tipping out of the pedal. This part of the tune is very subjective to feel and 10 differenct customers may have 10 different preferences. The goal is to find the proper balance where no one even notices it...if it is transparent then we did a good job.


As an owner of both tunes, I have to agree, the hot tune has more of a run away feeling when you take your foot off the accelerator, the Eco tune is perfect.
GreenDieselEngineering wrote:
This is a democracy so vote early and often! We look forward to hearing your suggestions.



I voted and did great according to the news

It was a good slap in the face to the socialist regime.
Will this bring our ECUs to the latest Chrysler Flash level, or does it just correct the glow plug failure issue?
Cool, I will be sending my ECUs in next week. You offer us great support
I got it!! It has alot of low end take off, and accelerates really fast. You can definitely feel the torque at low speeds. I also have the Eco tuned Liberty, the Hot tune does every thing the Eco tune does and more, really happy with it.

 
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