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Messages posted by: papaindigo
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Reaching the 2 vacuum assembly phillips screws (note they also have a hex head but I forget the size) as noted requires a really long #2 phillips screwdriver AND it's best if the screwdriver has a magnetic tip as the screws are way hard to reach to remove or install. Better yet is to remove the bottom of the air cleaner box before trying to remove the vacuum assembly. Simply pop the air box top clips, remove filter, detach the 2 electrical connections (1 has a sliding clip and the other has a tab retainer that need attention before they will unplug) and the turbo hose from the air box top and set the top to one side, the bottom is held in place by 3 plastic plugs (much like those that secure the plastic engine cover) the reverse of which can be seen in the 3 indentations in the inside bottom of the air box. I found removal of the air box requires a rather firm bit of tugging and wiggling "up" from the left rear (closest to the TCM) to release the first plug and then the other 2 pop loose fairly easily. After the air box is removed the vacuum assembly is a piece of cake. Reinstall in reverse order (TCM, vacuum assembly, and finally the air box bottom). Note that the rubber pieces the air box plugs fit into may come out when you remove the air box in which case you have to put them back in place and also that replugging the air box bottom in place requires about 5 minutes off wiggle, feel, fit before it can be pressed into proper place but it's well worth the effort.

Be sure to plug the turbo hose to keep debris out on the turbo while the TCM is off being flashed.
5,000 milles on stock TC with no issues. Do not plan to replace it until failure if and when. I need to same my money for better things on my CRD and stoutdog's.
Just returned from a round trip to Baltimore, MD with essentially all the driving on Interstate or US highways except for passing through small towns in SE Georgia on US 82 and 84. Hand calculated mpg (odometer reading corrected to match GPS and with all fill-ups showing clear unfoamed fuel at the top of the filler neck) ranges from a low of 29.7 (some rain and consistent headwinds) to a high of 33.9 (61-62 mph or 1,800 rpm with/without AC) with a whole trip average of 32 even. This is my second KJ diesel, the first having come out second best when I stopped for the red light and the dump truck behind me did not, and both that KJ and this one (both 2005s) typically got 28 or a bit less mpg in similar driving situations. Hence I am seeing a net overall mpg improvement with the GDE tune of 10-20% depending on speed, wind, ac, road condition, etc.

As to in town (25-45 mph with lots of traffic lights and a 1-way daily 9+ mile commute) I am less sure of the results but based on one tank full and 425 miles I appear to be looking at about a 10% improvement from 20 mpg or a bit less to essentially 22mpg.

However, I do note a significant change in the EVIC reported mpg. Prior to the GDE tune my EVIC typically reported about 0.7 mpg higher than the actual hand calculated mpg. After the GDE tune the EVIC is reporting about 5-6 mpg higher than the actual hand calculated mpg. I don't have a clue how the EVIC calculates mpg but apparently the GDE tune "upsets" that function.
 
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