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Messages posted by: TDIwyse
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I saw a slight increase in my daily driving when I wasn't using the extra available power. This was seen over many consecutive fill ups. The GDE TCM was added later and that also helped a bit more. Some details can be found in my review on this site and at lost.
Just another update as I've been away for the site for quite awhile. The GDE turbo kit, TCM and euro torque converter are still running well. We sold the TDI and the KJ has become my wife's daily driver. She makes a lot of short trips in it and the mpg's have suffered quite a bit compared to my normal to/fro work drive. After she'd been driving it for several weeks I needed it for something and was surprised to see a whole bunch of black coming out the exhaust the first time I got on it. She was babying the thing and I encouraged her to every once in awhile, when the engine was warmed up, to get on it a bit. Haven't had that issue since
My front rotors would be hot even when I didn't use the breaks (I have a 6 mile stretch of county road without a stop sign/light and I can usually go without hitting the brakes for this whole distance, then coast into the gravel road, then the drive, then into my garage with only using the brake pedal at the last instant to keep from going through the garage wall). The front rotors would be too hot to touch. The rear ones would be slightly warm. Jacking up the jeep and spinning the front wheels would show what I consider to be too much drag as well. I had this issue many months ago and kind of fixed it for awhile by doing some brake line bleeding and lubricating things. This last time I couldn't make it any better. Then I swapped out brake lines and used fresh fluid again. No improvement. Then I put new front brake pads in (the old ones were getting thin). After I compressed the brake caliper for the new pads everything in the front loosened up. No more hot front rotors. However, now the rear ones get warmer than they used to be before messing with the front calipers. Not quite sure what changed, but it seems to coast bit better now. And my mpg's went up a tad. Last 4 fillups now have been between 30 and 31 mpg's.
GreenDieselEngineering wrote:At this time we only have the one tune for the turbo kit and it meets the design criteria for turbo speed limits. We could do a secondary tune for short burst of power, but this most likely will exceed the cylinder pressure limits and turbo speed limits a bit. The short bursts most likely would not be detrimental to the head, but we would have to increase the smoke levels at high rpm because the turbo bearings do not like to be oversped.

Just to clarify, the flash tool takes a couple minutes to download the tune and requires the engine off with the ignition on. Not as fast as a switch, but it gets the job done!


Thanks for the info. A little smoke wouldn't be objectionable to me at all. All my diesels smoke a little at full fuel. Are the cylinder pressure limits something that can be determined by the boost/EGT's? Or is this more of a theoretical limit based on the amount of fuel/boost/timing/turbo speed/etc. that you have set the ECM levels at presently?

Also, that couple minute time frame for swapping tunes would be fine. Switching back and forth for the few times a year I tow with the CRD would not be a problem for me.

Thanks.
On lost you guys have been talking about a flash programmer. From your testing on the turbo kit would you think it would be reasonable to have a higher hp tune (the low end torque is more than fine for me) that extends the hp at higher rpm for situations when one knows they won't be towing or sustaining those hp levels for very long? Thinking more of an option that would enable safe levels of higher hp for short bursts. Stop light to stop light or 1/4 mile type situations.

That flash programmer would be real nice for switching back and forth between the nominal and "crazy" tune. If so I would be extremely interested in your flash programmer.

Just updating things. The GDE turbo kit is still running exceptionally well. Now that most of the road construction is done on my normal back and forth to work route, using the GDE TCM, and re-addressed the dragging brake issue again, I've broke 30 mpg for 2 fillups in a row. Was never able to do this with the eco or hot tunes. Some of it may be the TCM, but the vast majority of my route doesn't take advantage of the TCM capabilities.
Anonymous wrote:Been beta testing their TCM for awhile. It's a fantastic upgrade and I'd highly recommend it. The euro TC is working well with this tune and their turbo kit with no signs of shudder with TC lockup at these lower rpm's. The TC will stay locked down as low as ~1400 rpm if you stay easy with the fuel pedal. All the lockup rpm's occur lower than stock. The first trip I made with the TCM where I felt the tranny lockup in 3rd, 4th and 5th at the substantially lower rpm's put a big smile on my face.


forgot to log in . . .
WXman wrote:Any update on how the Jeep is running without the mechanical fan?? I'd love to take mine off permanently and save the fuel. Not to mention allow the Jeep to run just a tad warmer. But if 80s and 90s would cook the engine this Summer...then it wouldn't be worth it of course.


I still have my mech fan removed. It was in the mid 80's here yesterday. I did a fair bit of town driving today (stop n go with the AC on) and lots of interstate driving and the temp gauge was higher than I recalled seeing it before in similiar conditions (but it's been a long time since it's been this warm here) but it never got to the straight up point. It stayed about midway between the 176 (mark to the left of straight up) and 216 (straight up mark) on GDE's Temp gauge description photo.
What is the bolt pattern on the VM? Back in 06 I used this companies adapter for part of my YJ Cummins conversion:

http://www.phxgrp.com/transmission.htm

Bought my own G-Tech Pro RR. It arrived today and . . . I couldn't resist. Got the rpm's to sync up with my vehicle.

Back to the same place. Air temp was 76 today. I removed the spare tire this time and the tank was down to ~2/3. I filled up with 8.7 gallons after these runs. I estimated the total weight at 4800 lbs based on some things I've read from others who have weighed their vehicles. I've got heavier wheels than stock, a heavy tow hitch, etc. I think I'm close but it could be off +/- 100 lbs.

I re-did the full time 4wd launch but with a little less brake launch than both previous runs due to concern over excessive forces on the drivetrain. I didn't hear any tires break loose this time.

60' 2.171
330' 6.371
1/8 ml 9.974 @ 69.20 mph (kept the fuel going all the way this time)
0-60mph 7.518 sec

The G-Tech recorded a hp of 154.7 at 3627 rpm and max tq of 244.3 ft-lbs at 3306 (the torque converter never locked and spun up so fast it didn't really record any rpm's below 3300 rpm.

So then I decided I would try to do a full 1/4 mile run with the OD off button to see what that would do. I didn't do 4wd as I'm not sure what safe speeds are with all that stuff engaged and I was pretty sure I'd be going pretty fast . . .

I got on the interstate, pulled over on the median and waited for a good, long gap to launch. 2wd with ESP on and a fair bit of brake launch. Lots of tire chirping and traction control lights flickering. Horrible launch. But I'm not going to try that again anytime soon because as I was slowing down from almost 100 (it was at a 100 faster than I anticipated) I saw flashing lights ahead in the distance. SHAZAM! I had visions of loosing my license . . . fortunately it was a cop who had already pulled over a car going in the opposite direction. I didn't look to see if he also had a G-Tech suction cupped to his windshield . . .

60' 2.551 (horrible, a full 0.4 sec worse than the previous 4wd launches and 0.2 worse than the previos 2wd launch with ESP off)
330' 6.798 (also significantly worse than the previous 4wd launch)
1/8 ml 10.298 @ 72.28 mph (time is still slower but the speed is much faster )
0-60mph 7.626 sec
1/4 ml 15.702 @ 92.57 mph

The G-Tech recorded a hp of 201.7 at 3644 rpm and max tq of 330.5 ft-lbs at 3027. The lower rpm for the torque compared to the previous run appears to have occurred due to the TC locking up in 3rd and dragging the rpm's down further than with the TC unlocked.

It appears that a full time 4wd launch with the OD off would give the optimum results, but I'm gonna be A LOT more careful next time I do something stupid like this. Here, hold my beer.

P.S. Even with all these full fuel runs hand calculated mpg's came in at 25.2.
GreenDieselEngineering wrote:The fact that nothing broke in the driveline while doing aggressive brake torque lauches is a testament to the KJ hardware.


I thought after 2 of these launches I should stop whilst I was ahead. I don't anticipate doing this very often, but it's good to know what its capable of doing if needed.


GreenDieselEngineering wrote:On a down note, your fuel economy on this tank might not be very good, but a 7.6sec 0-60 more than makes up for that. Thanks for the continued feedback. GDE


I predict you are correct. And thanks again for your support of the Liberty CRD community.
GreenDieselEngineering wrote:Launching in 4WD will definitely help reduce the spin and should not hurt anything in the driveline.


Got my co-workers G-Tech Pro RR. Just did some messing around with it. I "need" one of these things

Back to the same place/location and launched in 2wd, ESP off, and still have significant ABS modulation to control wheel spin. The G-tech reported the following:

60' 2.345 s
330' 6.744 s
1/8 ml 10.48 @ 64.63 mph (I lifted off the fuel just after 60 mph as the speed limit is 55)
0-60mph 8.414 sec (right in line with my stop watch results from a few days ago)

Then I did the full time 4wd launches. First one is with just a bit of boost buildup with the brake applied before launch. Still some initial wheel spinning.

60' 2.216 s
330' 6.452 s
1/8 ml 10.122 s @ 66.94 mph (again lifted out just after crossing 60)
0-60mph 7.816 sec

Re-did the run with more boost buildup before launch. Initial wheel spin . . .

60' 2.162 s
330' 6.373 s
1/8 ml 10.022 s @ 66.33 mph (again lifted out just after crossing 60)
0-60mph 7.656 sec

Additional non-stock items include: I've got 235/75R16 General Grabber HTS tires, almost a full tank of fuel, a Discoverer ATR 215/85R16 spare tire (heavy), V6 airbox mod, Magnaflow mufller, stanadyne FM100 with a 5um filter, lift pump.

Ambient conditions: Air temp was 62F and elevation is ~ 800 ft.

Color me impressed with GDE's turbo kit.

flman wrote:Just push that little ESP button on the steering column, and the traction control icon will illuminate, indicating that it is off.


I'll have to give that a try. I thought that ESP button just turned off a portion of the ESP but left the Traction Control still operational. This is from a web bookmark I had which described all these "systems":

What do all these ABS, ROM, ESP, BA and TC letters mean to you? The ABS senses when a tire/wheel is locked up and releases the brake pressure to that tire/wheel to give you optimum braking and steering control in a panic situation. ROM senses when a tire/wheel is lifting and applies braking forces to the other tires/wheels to compensate and lessen the chance of a Rollover. ESP senses "yaw" and adjusts power and or braking. Basically it compares the attitude of your vehicle to the steering input and keeps your vehicle stable during understeer or oversteer situations. BA automatically adds brake pressure near the end of a stop to decrease braking distance. TC does two things. On Road it senses tire spin and applies braking pressure to stop uncontrolled tire spin. Off Road this also acts like a traction device and directs more power to the tires/wheels that have traction to keep you moving in loose conditions. You do have the options to "turn off" the ESP but the other functions still operate normally.
flman wrote:Good luck with that new Turbo kit. I hope you are enjoying it


Thanks, I am.

I was doing some 0-60 runs this afternoon. I was launching in 2wd and the wheels would lite up for an instant and then the traction control light would start flashing and start breaking the wheels to keep them from spinning . . . I still managed (just using a stop watch and the speedometer so it's not real precise) 8.4-8.7 sec times with a full tank of D2, the spare tire, and some groceries. Air temps were 54F and some pretty good cross wind (and did it multiple times in both directions of the road so the time range above didn't favor one direction in case it wasn't as flat as it looked).

Is there a way to turn off the traction control? Would it be better to launch in full time 4wd or would that put the front differential in jeopardy as I've read it's kind of weak and if you hop the front wheels there's a good chance of things breaking . . .

Also, I originally had a "whoosh" sound that would start at high boost levels which appeared to come from the new downpipe/exhaust junction. I didn't weld that interface but used a clamp. This morning I used a bigger wrench and tightened the clamp some more and the "whoosh" was gone on this afternoons full fuel runs.

Oh, another question: I'm planning to put this on a superflow dyno next week but I'm not sure how to keep the TC locked up at lower rpm's. I was messing around with that this afternoon with the overdrive off and starting at ~1700 rpm in 3rd (1:1) lockup but if I give it full fuel it just unlocks. I can do it where it's not full fuel and it stays locked but that won't let the dyno show the full power/torque of the GDE turbo kit. Any suggestions on how to keep the TC locked up during a chassis dyno run?
One thing I'd like to add about the turbo to manifold bolts. The GDE instructions said to use a 13mm. I "felt" like I was about to round the heads off on the 2nd bolt I was removing so I switched to a 1/2 inch instead. I don't know if my 06 is different than normal, but here's a look at the size of these bolts as measured with my micrometer.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10201173@N06/4465051483/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10201173@N06/4465827458/
 
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