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Messages posted by: mngoat
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GDE, Do you recommend changing out the GP"s as a preventive thing? Or just wait till you have trouble with the originals? Thanks
TDIwyse wrote:My front rotors would be hot even when I didn't use the breaks (I have a 6 mile stretch of county road without a stop sign/light and I can usually go without hitting the brakes for this whole distance, then coast into the gravel road, then the drive, then into my garage with only using the brake pedal at the last instant to keep from going through the garage wall). The front rotors would be too hot to touch. The rear ones would be slightly warm. Jacking up the jeep and spinning the front wheels would show what I consider to be too much drag as well. I had this issue many months ago and kind of fixed it for awhile by doing some brake line bleeding and lubricating things. This last time I couldn't make it any better. Then I swapped out brake lines and used fresh fluid again. No improvement. Then I put new front brake pads in (the old ones were getting thin). After I compressed the brake caliper for the new pads everything in the front loosened up. No more hot front rotors. However, now the rear ones get warmer than they used to be before messing with the front calipers. Not quite sure what changed, but it seems to coast bit better now. And my mpg's went up a tad. Last 4 fillups now have been between 30 and 31 mpg's.




Thanks for the feed back....mine are still dragging but i haven't tried anything new for a few months. Just waiting for the front pads to wear a little more then i will replace with good quality ones and see if it changes things. Thanks again.
TDIwyse wrote:Just updating things. The GDE turbo kit is still running exceptionally well. Now that most of the road construction is done on my normal back and forth to work route, using the GDE TCM, and re-addressed the dragging brake issue again, I've broke 30 mpg for 2 fillups in a row. Was never able to do this with the eco or hot tunes. Some of it may be the TCM, but the vast majority of my route doesn't take advantage of the TCM capabilities.




when you mention dragging brake issue, what problem did you have? I've been having trouble with my front brakes hanging(not real bad) have swapped out calipers, slidder pins, shimmed out the master with no avail. Also have pulled the fuses on the abs system and still the same. I can drive around for a bit, pull the jeep into garage, jack up front end and both front tires are really stiff. Let them sit for a bit and the get better by themselves after 15-20 minutes.
GreenDieselEngineering wrote:Sorry for the late response...hopefully the vehicle is fixed already. The brakes on the KJ are biased towards the front. The high temps do indicate sticky caliper pins or some sort of residual pressure in the brake lines. Definitely check the front brakes, does the brake pedal always feel the same or does the first press of the pedal sometimes feel mushy? You may need to bleed the front brakes as well. Let us know how it worked out for you. Thanks




Actually I'm still working on it. I have had the caliper pins stick. I swapped them out with a new set of pins and rubber from napa. I used the brakes grease from napa( it is in the little blue package at the front counter, It is a synthetic grease http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_7653072_0006462455 ). Upon install the calipers worked great but after about a week the pins (top ones only) locked up. Got them out and it was the little black rubber that slides over the pin that was holding them up. I had to hammer them out. It was almost like the grease i used caused the rubber to swell. I don't know. Anyway i just decided to changed out both front calipers this weekend and used a different grease. I am watching the top pins carefully.
GDE, on another post you stated "We noticed significant differences in fuel economy on our two KJs in the past and it stemmed from the front brakes. The support pins that hold the calipers in place tend to get build-up inside the little rubber protectors and this prevented the calipers from finding a neutral position. After we took the calipers off, cleaned the support pin and then re-lubricated with (CRC synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease) the fuel economy came back up. This may be the issue with your father's KJ."


I have been trying to track down why i have lost more than the normal drop in MPG with winter fuel. Would the reason above cause the front brake rotors to get hot even with minimal use? Mine seem like they get really hot(can't hardly touch ) and the rears are cool even with minimal use. I've also notice this past winter that the front ABS seemed to be real sensitive(coming on all the time when i touched the brakes). Would this be a sysmtom of sticky calipers? Thanks
I'm having trouble getting the cab to heat up well in my 2005. As to my knowledge i haven't had the flash done. In the past my temp needle has always been right on the first line before the halfway point or the 167 spot on the non flashed gauge.(summer/winter)This winter the needle is sitting just a whisker over the second mark before halfway and I'm not getting as much heat in the cab as usual. Do you think this could be a sticky thermostat? Engine seems to heat up just as fast as it used to...I have put cardboard in the eight slots in the front grill and that made no difference at all as far as the temperature. Any thought b/4 i take a chance and pull the thermostat are appreciated. Thanks. Viscous heater seems to be working properly also.
GreenDieselEngineering wrote:You do not have to rewire the SEGR back to stock, a few other customers are running SEGR and the tune without any CEL and it will not effect the performance or fuel economy either way. Yes we are taking deposits, however right now it has to be a check since our paypal does not have a link setup yet. The deposit for a turbo kit is $300.

Have you ever experienced shudder with the Suncoast torque converter?



No, I never have experienced the shudder with the suncoast( now crossing fingers and knocking on wood) I've been very pleased with my setup but always looking for improvements. The only problem I'm having with it is getting some heat in the cab with the cold Minnesota winters. $300 deposit and then remaining $2500 sometime around the end of January or so when kits are available?
GreenDieselEngineering wrote:Based on the machining costs, the price for the first 10 kits will be around $2800. This would include the tune and all hardware to complete the job. It is imperative the CRD is equipped with an aftermarket torque converter. We have tested the turbo kit with the new Mopar TC and it performs wonderfully!



Are you taking deposits? Have all ten been spoken for yet? Currently have a 05 with suncoast T/C and tranny kit, SEGR and Inmotion stage 2 tune. I'm assumming with your tune I would eliminate the SEGR and wire things back together to stock?
GreenDieselEngineering wrote:We have received the first ten kits and will be sending parts out for machining work. Due to the holiday season we are not expecting to have the completed kits ready for sale until mid to late January. Having the parts in hand is a big step in the right direction and we are working to expedite this as soon as feasible. Thanks for the patience.



......I better start saving my pennies....any idea on a target price for the kit? and how did the fall testing go? I assuming all is well with it if you starting to produce them. Thanks
 
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